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The award-winning buffet at JW Marriott (Map; 0 2656 7700; ground fl, JW Marriott Hotel, 4 Soi Phasak/2, Th Sukhumvit; buffet 1637B; 11am-3pm Sat & Sun; Skytrain Nana) is likened to Thanksgiving all year-round, and generous options for free-flowing beer or wine are also available. Rang Mahal (Map; 0 2261 7100; 26th fl, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Soi 20, Th Sukhumvit; buffet 848B; 11am-2.30pm Sun; Skytrain Asok, Metro Sukhumvit), on the top of the Rembrandt Hotel, couples great views with an all-Indian buffet every Sunday. And for those who love the sweet stuff, the Sukhothai Hotel (Map; 0 2344 8888; www.sukhothai.com; 13/3 Th Sathon Tai; buffet 790B; 2-6pm Fri-Sun; Metro Lumphini) offers a unique, entirely cocoa-based chocolate buffet.

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Central & Greater Bangkok

Phat Thai Ari (Map; 0 2270 1654; 2/1-2 Soi Ari/7, Th Phahonyothin; dishes 40-95B; 11am-10pm; Skytrain Ari) One of the city’s better-known pàt tai shops is just steps away from the Ari Skytrain station. Try the innovative ‘noodle-less’ version, where long strips of crispy green papaya are substituted for the traditional rice noodles from Chanthaburi.

Pathé (Map; 0 2938 4995; cnr Th Lad Phrao & Th Viphawadee; dishes 40-120B; 10am-1am; Metro Phahonyothin) The Thai equivalent of a 1950s-era American diner, this popular place combines solid Thai food, a fun atmosphere and a jukebox playing scratched records. Don’t miss the deep-fried ice cream.

Mallika (Map; 0 248 0287; 21/36 Th Rang Nam; dishes 70-180B; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; Skytrain Victory Monument) A dream come true: authentic regional Thai (southern, in this case), with a legible English menu, good service and tidy setting. The prices are slightly high for a mom-and-pop Thai joint, but you’re paying for quality.

River Bar Café (Map; 0 2879 1747; 405/1 Soi Chao Phraya, Th Ratchawithi, Thonburi; dishes 90-240B; 5pm-midnight; klorng taxi to Tha Krung Thon Bridge pier) Sporting a picture-perfect riverside location, good food and live music, River Bar Café combines all the essentials for a perfect Bangkok night out.

DRINKING

Once infamous as an anything-goes nightlife destination, in recent years Bangkok has been edging towards teetotalism with strict regulations limiting the sale of alcohol and increasingly conservative closing times. Regardless, the city still boasts a diverse and fun bar scene, and there are even a few places to go if you find 1am too early to get back on the wagon.

Keep in mind that smoking has been outlawed at all indoor (and some quasi-outdoor) entertainment places since 2008; surprisingly for Thailand, the rule is strictly enforced.

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Ko Ratanakosin & Banglamphu

During the day, Th Khao San is dominated by just about everybody but Thais. At night the natives deem it safe to join the crowds, giving the area an entirely different atmosphere. In addition to the main strip, Th Rambutri and Th Phra Athit also draw drinkers and fun seekers from across the city, and the world.

Hippie de Bar (Map; 0 2629 3508; 46 Th Khao San; river ferry Tha Phra Athit) Popular with the domestic crowd, Hippie boasts several levels of fun, both indoor and outdoor. There’s food, pool tables and a soundtrack you’re unlikely to hear elsewhere in town.

Old Phra Arthit Pier (Map; 0 2282 9202; 23 Th Phra Athit; river ferry Tha Phra Athit) This self-proclaimed ‘Gastronobar’ consists of an attractive wooden loungelike bar and an open-air deck with fleeting views of the river. As the name apparently suggests, there’s food as well.

Taksura (Map; 0 2622 0708; 156/1 Th Tanao; klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) There are no signs to lead you to this seemingly abandoned century-old mansion in the heart of old Bangkok, which is all the better, according to the cool uni-artsy crowd who frequent the place. Take a seat outside to soak up the breezes, and go Thai and order some spicy nibbles with your drinks.

Phranakorn Bar (Map; 0 2282 7507; 58/2 Soi Damnoen Klang Tai; klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) It must have taken