Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [148]
The most convenient way to get there is by taxi or bus (33 from Sanam Luang) to Pak Kret, before boarding the cross-river ferry that leaves from Wat Sanam Neua. Alternatively, if you’re willing to brave a weekend visit, you can join one of the weekend tours operated by Chao Phraya Express (0 2623 6001; www.chaophrayaboat.co.th; adult/child 300/250B; 10am-4.45pm Sat & Sun) that depart from Tha Sathon.
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All Bangkok–Nakhon Pathom buses pass by the access road to the park at Phra Phutthamonthon Sai 4; from there you can walk, hitch or flag down a sŏrng·ta·ou into the park itself. From Nakhon Pathom you can also take a white-and-purple Salaya bus; the stop is on Th Tesa across from the post office.
Don Wai Market, on the banks of Mae Nam Nakhon Chaisi, is another worthwhile destination. Click here for details on getting there.
Eating
Nakhon Pathom has an excellent market along the road between the train station and Phra Pathom Chedi; its kôw lhm (sticky rice and coconut steamed in a length of bamboo) is reputed to be the best in Thailand. There are many good, inexpensive food vendors and restaurants in this area.
Getting There & Away
Nakhon Pathom is 64km west of Bangkok. The city doesn’t have a central bus station, but most transport arrives and departs from near the market and train station.
The most convenient and fastest way to get to Nakhon Pathom is on a rót ôo (shared minivan) from Central Pinklao (30B) or the Victory Monument (60B). Vans leave when full, generally from 6am to approximately 6pm.
There are also more frequent trains from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station (3rd/2nd/1st class 14/31/60B, one hour) throughout the day. Nakhon Pathom is also on the spur rail line that runs from Thonburi’s Bangkok Noi station to Kanchanaburi’s Nam Tok station, although because of the route’s status as a ‘tourist line’ the fares are exorbitantly high for foreigners.
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Central Thailand
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AYUTHAYA PROVINCE
AYUTHAYA
AROUND AYUTHAYA
LOPBURI PROVINCE
LOPBURI
KANCHANABURI PROVINCE
KANCHANABURI
AROUND KANCHANABURI
THONG PHA PHUM
SANGKHLABURI
AROUND SANGKHLABURI
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Both the geographic and cultural heart of the kingdom, the central region is the birthplace of modern-day Thailand. Kings ruled, empires grew and merchants traded from here, aided by the area’s extraordinary natural features. The soaring mountain ranges separating Thailand from Myanmar (Burma) are the source of several major rivers flowing down to the area’s fertile plains.
As well as being historically important, the region is environmentally significant, with some of the largest protected territories in Southeast Asia. Logging and deforestation have reduced much of the natural landscape, but the majority of terrain is still wild forest, jungle and grassland. Deep within the dense vegetation dwell tigers, elephants and leopards.
Just north of Bangkok is the former Siam royal capital of Ayuthaya, home to fabled palace and temple ruins. Once one of the world’s great cities, at its peak it was a major hub for trade, art and culture, but these days the pace is far more genteel. Slightly further north is the small town of Lopburi, where monkeys play and scavenge among the Khmer-style ruins.
Northwest from Bangkok is Kanchanaburi, the country’s third-largest province. Its natural beauty makes it a popular destination for Thais and tourists, who come to bathe in waterfalls, trek through jungles and kayak along rivers. War veterans make pilgrimages here to remember those who died in WWII when Japanese forces used prisoners of war to build the ‘Death Railway’.
In the mountains of northwest Kanchanaburi are sleepy Thong Pha Phum and Sangkhlaburi. Many ethnic groups live in and around these towns near the border. Few travellers make it this far, but those that do are richly rewarded with a fascinating