Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [149]
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HIGHLIGHTS
Exploring the grassy ruins of Ayuthaya (Click here), Unesco World Heritage Site and former capital of Siam
Clambering up the seven-tiered waterfall at Erawan National Park (Click here)
Snapping pictures of the mischievous monkeys in Lopburi (Click here)
Visiting the WWII memorials in easygoing Kanchanaburi (Click here)
Living among the treetops and exploring nature trails in Thong Pha Phum National Park (Click here)
Taking a dawn boat along the misty morning waters in sleepy Sangkhlaburi (Click here)
BEST TIME TO VISIT: OCTOBER–DECEMBER
POPULATION: 2.3 MILLION
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History
Some of the earliest recorded history in the region is made up of Neolithic stone tools and weapons found at the delta of Mae Nam Khwae Noi and Mae Nam Khwae Yai rivers.
Several empires, including the Dvaravati and Khmer, later used this region as an important base. During the 400-year Ayuthaya period the area flourished and many Western nations established settlements, but none ever subjugated their hosts.
In WWII the Japanese army forced Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and Asian conscripted labourers to build the ‘Death Railway’ around Kanchanaburi. More than 100,000 workers died during the construction due to disease and the brutal treatment meted out by their captors.
Climate
Central Thailand experiences the country’s three seasons in equal measure; Kanchanaburi can be basking in sunshine while torrential rain buffets Sangkhlaburi. It is hot from February to June, rainy from June to October, and cool (relatively speaking) from October to January: one constant is the humidity. Within the region there are some variations. Because of altitude, it can be significantly cooler in Sangkhlaburi and surrounding national parks than in other parts of the region. Ayuthaya and Lopburi sit in a wide-open plain that receives similar amounts of rain and heat as Bangkok.
National Parks
Most of Kanchanaburi Province is covered by forest, grasslands and mountain ranges. These areas are divided up into national parks, the most popular of which are Erawan and Sai Yok. Si Nakharin, Chaloem Ratanakosin, Khao Laem and Thong Pha Phum parks have fewer visitors but all have accommodation and guides available.
Language
The people of central Thailand share a common dialect that is considered ‘standard’ Thai simply because Bangkok, the seat of power, happens to be in the region. High concentrations of Chinese are found in the cities of the central provinces since this is where a large number of Chinese immigrants started out as farmers and labourers and then later as merchants. Significant numbers of Mon and Karen live in Kanchanaburi Province. Pockets of Lao and Phuan – the descendents of war captives who were forcibly resettled following Thai raids into Laos over the centuries – can be found in the region’s three provinces of Ayuthaya, Lopburi and Kanchanaburi.
Getting There & Away
Most people come to central Thailand by bus or train. Buses are quicker, cleaner and usually more comfortable; trains are slower but more scenic and can be more social. Central Thailand is connected to the north and northeast via train. There is a good highway network so it is possible to hire vehicles and travel independently.
Getting Around
Local buses and trains provide a cheap and simple way to get from A to B. In most towns you can catch a private shm·lór (also spelt sǎamláw; three-wheeled pedicab) or túk-túk (pronounced úk dúk; motorised transport). These have a set fare for locals which tourists are rarely offered, so it’s important to agree a price beforehand. Lopburi can be covered on foot, Ayuthaya requires a bicycle while in Kanchanaburi you’ll need private transport or help from tour agencies to visit some of the sites.
AYUTHAYA PROVINCE
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AYUTHAYA
pop 137,553
Ayuthaya is a former Asian powerhouse that today offers fragmented evidence of its magnificent past.
This former royal capital was a major trading port during the time of the trade winds, when international