Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [150]
Today, thanks to major renovation and restoration work, it’s possible to envisage just how spectacular the ruins would have looked in their heyday.
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AYUTHAYA’S TOP FIVE SITES
Wat Phra Si Sanphet
Wat Phanan Choeng
Wat Chai Wattanaram
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
Wihaan Mongkhon Bophit
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Despite the town’s popularity among tourists, Ayuthaya remains relatively unspoiled and has its own charm. Away from the grassy ruins, the surrounding countryside is changing from an agricultural to manufacturing base as new factories replace the old rice paddies.
Ayuthaya is a place of great cultural interest and its proximity to Bangkok ensures it is a popular stop-off destination for visitors as part of their journey north.
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History
Ayuthaya was the capital of Siam for 417 years, between 1350 and 1767, and had strong links to several European nations. At its peak it controlled an area larger than England and France combined, and was a melting pot of culture, art and trade. Its glorious reign ended in 1767 when the invading Burmese army sacked the city, looting most of its treasures.
Named after Ayodhya (Sanskrit for ‘unconquerable’), Prince Rama’s city in the Indian epic Ramayana, Ayuthaya emerged as little more than a Khmer outpost to become one of Asia’s foremost cities. The first Westerners arrived from Portugal in 1511 and were so astounded by the city’s beauty that they named it the ‘Venice of the East’.
In 1685 French diplomat Abbe de Choisy wrote that Ayuthaya was a ‘large city on an island surrounded by a river three times the size of the Seine, full of French, English, Dutch, Chinese, Japanese and Siamese vessels and an uncountable number of barges, and gilded galleys with 60 oarsmen’.
Ayuthaya had 33 kings, who generally ruled through tolerance rather than violence. Adroit diplomacy ensured no Western power ever took control.
After the Burmese sacked the city there was a period of instability until General Taksin emerged and moved the capital to Bangkok. Ayuthaya continued as a provincial trading town while its ruins continued to crumble or be looted. The Thai Fine Arts Department began restoring the site in the 1950s, and it was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1991.
Orientation
Central Ayuthaya is effectively an island, situated at the confluence of three rivers (Mae Nam Chao Phraya, Mae Nam Pa Sak and Mae Nam Lopburi). Most of the temple ruins are in the northwest quadrant of the island, and most guesthouses and transportation are in the northeast section. Several major ruins are just off the island. A ring road, Th U Thong, hugs the island’s perimeter. The train station and long-distance northern bus terminal are off the island in the eastern part of town.
Information
EMERGENCY
Tourist police (emergency 1155; Th Si Sanphet)
INTERNET ACCESS
Several shops on and around Soi 2, Th Naresuan have connections for 30B per hour.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Ayuthaya Hospital (0 3532 2555, emergency 1669; cnr Th U Thong & Th Si Sanphet) Has an emergency centre and some English-speaking doctors.
MONEY
ATMs are easy to find, especially along Th Naresuan near the Amporn Shopping Centre.
Bank of Ayuthaya (Th U Thong near Th Naresuan)
Kasikorn Bank (Th Naresuan)
Siam City Bank (Th U Thong)
Siam Commercial Bank (Th Naresuan)
POST
Main post office (Th U Thong; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat & Sun)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 3532 2730, 0 3524 6076; 108/22 Th Si Sanphet; 8.30am-4.30pm) The tourist office is on the ground floor of the large white government building. Pick up some maps, then go upstairs for the free interactive display about the history of Ayuthaya.
Dangers & Annoyances
The main roads on the island are in good condition, but elsewhere