Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [152]
Wat Suwan Dararam
This temple in the southeast of the island is worth visiting for the different architectural Thai styles. King Rama I designed the exterior of the older-style uposatha (a temple’s central building, containing Buddha images) while Rama III designed the interior. The slightly bowed line along the temple edge and its relatively plain finish are typical of the period. Next to it is a wí·hhn (large hall) from Rama IV’s reign, resplendent with a glittering external mosaic and internal paintings depicting the life of King Naresuan.
Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre
The interesting models in this centre (0 3524 5124; Th Rotchana; adult/student 100/50B; 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) help give a sense of what life was like in old Ayuthaya. Displays also detail village life and aspects of Thai culture.
Chao Sam Phraya National Museum
Most of Ayuthaya’s treasures were stolen or melted down long ago. Some pieces did survive though, and are displayed in this museum (admission 150B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun). Exhibitions include gold treasures from crypts at Wat Phra Mahathat and Wat Ratburana, and an enormous bronze Buddha head from the U Thong period. Several books on Thai art and architecture are for sale at the entrance.
Chantharakasem National Museum
The grounds of this national museum (Th U Thong; admission 100B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) are actually more interesting than its collection of artefacts, sculptures and ancient weapons. The museum, near the banks of Mae Nam Pasak, is within the grounds of Wang Chan Kasem (Chan Kasem Palace), which was built for King Naresuan by his father in 1577.
Ayuthaya Fighting Show
Behind the elephant ‘taxi’ stand is the Ayuthaya Fighting Show (550B). The 10-strong crew stages 30-minute shows at 10.30am, 11.30am, 1pm, 2pm and 3pm. Their dextrous displays of swords and sticks are a reminder of how wars used to be fought. Each show is quick and slick, and the comic touches are as sharp as the sickles they wave around.
OFF THE ISLAND
On the opposite side of the moat that surrounds central Ayuthaya are several famous temples, as well as ethnic communities that defined the former kingdom’s international prestige. You can reach some sites by bicycle, but others will require a motorbike. Evening boat tours around the island are another way to see the highlights (Click here).
Wat Phanan Choeng
This busy, modern temple (admission 20B) is a popular place for many Thai-Chinese to make merit or have their fortunes told.
A famous 19m-high Buddha image (Phra Phanan Choeng) sits in the wí·hhn surrounded by the 84,000 Buddha images that line the walls. A Chinese temple on the grounds ensures there is a constant crackle from exploding firecrackers. Three Buddha images sit in the ordination hall; the central one is a U-Thong image while the flanking ones are Sukhothai style.
Merit making is the main activity here, and many worshippers buy bags of fish which are then ritualistically released into the river.
Wat Phanan Choeng is southeast of the town. The best way to get here from the island is by ferry (5B) from the pier near Phom Phet Fortress. Your bicycle can accompany you on the crossing.
Portuguese Settlement
At the height of Ayuthaya’s power up to 40 ethnic groups settled in the city. The Portuguese were first to arrive, followed by the Dutch, British and Japanese. Up to 2000 Portuguese traders and diplomats lived in the area and there were three Catholic churches. A small group of Thai Catholics still live near the site today.
The Portuguese brought guns with them, and this modern weapon helped the Thais defeat the Burmese in 1520. As a result of this victory, the Portuguese were given land on which to build. In 1767 the Burmese invaders burned down the settlement and it wasn’t until 1985 that a