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Just south of the island, the Portuguese Settlement displays the skeletal remains of 40 Portuguese settlers in an open pit. Look out for the unusual spirit house with figures of St Joseph and St Paul, and a French map which claims the city’s waters were once infested with crocodiles. To the west of the Portuguese Settlement is a Muslim quarter.

Japanese Village

Another 5km south of the Portuguese Settlement is the Japanese Village (adult/child 50/20B; 8am-5pm). The Japanese settlement was one of the largest foreign contingents, and many settlers were Christians fleeing persecution in their homelands for more tolerant Ayuthaya. A video presentation sets the scene and a giant electronic image of an oil painting by Dutch artists shows just how glorious the city looked in its heyday. Outside the small exhibition hall is a Japanese-style garden.

Wat Chai Wattanaram

Just 40 years ago this temple (admission 50B) was immersed in thick jungle. Today it is one of Ayuthaya’s most-photographed sites, thanks to its impressive Khmer-style central prang, which stands 35m high. Built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong to honour his mother, the temple is a great place to watch sunsets. The site is west of the island and can be reached on bicycle via a nearby bridge.

Phu Khao Thong

Clamber up the 79 steps of this chedi, also known as Golden Monument, for great views of the city. Originally built by the Burmese during a 15-year occupation, the top section was added later by Thais. The statue at the front is a memorial to the all-conquering King Naresuan, who is surrounded here by a rather surreal collection of fighting cocks. Legend has it that when Naresuan was held as a hostage in Burma his invincible fighting cocks helped to secure his fearsome reputation.

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WÁT A SIGHT BY NIGHT

If you think the temple ruins look good by day, you should see them at night. Some of Ayuthaya’s most impressive ruins take on an ethereal glow after dark, when they are dramatically illuminated.

Wat Ratburana, Wat Chai Wattanaram, Wat Phra Ram and Wat Mahathat are all lit up from 7pm to 9pm. The grounds are closed, but it is still worth strolling past the temples or finding a nearby restaurant to have dinner.

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Queen Suriyothai Memorial Park

Close to Phu Khao Thong is this tribute to the warrior queen, near the spot where she died in 1548 while fighting the Burmese. Visit in the early evening, when Thais come to hang out in the vast grounds.

Wat Na Phra Meru

This temple (Phra Mehn; admission 20B) was one of only a handful to escape unscathed from the Burmese army’s 1767 attack, as it was the invading army’s base.

In the bòht (central sanctuary) there’s an impressive carved wooden ceiling showing the Buddhist heavens. Inside the wí·hhn is a rare green sandstone Buddha from Sri Lanka. It is from the Dvaravati period, making it around 1500 years old. Its prominent facial features and joined eyebrows are typical of the period.

Elephant Kraal

Wild elephants were once rounded up and kept in this krahl (stockade). Each year the king would look on here as the finest beasts were chosen and either put to work or used as war machines. This restored krahl, which has 980 teak logs, is 2km from the centre of town.

Baan Th Dusit

This group of ruins shows a more rustic side to Ayuthaya. Located just east of the island, the area has picturesque lakes where fishermen while away their time.

Wat Maheyong is a popular weekend meditation retreat in a leafy courtyard near the temple ruins. Slightly farther down the road is Wat Kudi Dao, which has been abandoned to nature and is quite atmospheric as a result. Wat Ayuthaya is from the early Ayuthaya period and on Wednesday and Saturday evenings plays host to a small market.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

The 7m-long reclining Buddha, draped in a long orange robe, is the main feature at this temple (admission 20B). King U Thong built the monastery in 1357 to house monks from Sri Lanka. The chedi was built later to honour King Naresuan’s victory