Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [154]
Cycling Tour
Start at the Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre (Click here) then continue down Th Rotchana to the TAT office (Click here) and its video presentation. Leaving here, turn left and go over the roundabout. On your right is Wat Phra Ram, then make your way to Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Click here). Walk through here to get to Wihaan Mongkhon Bophit (Click here), then return to Th Si Sanphet and turn right at the roundabout onto Th Pa Thon. Go over a small wooden bridge and turn right onto Th Khlong Thaw. On the left is the entrance to Wat Chetharam and Wat Lokaya Sutha. Return to Th Khlong Thaw and head north. Turn right onto Th U Thong and follow the river east before turning left over another small bridge which leads to Wat Na Phra Meru (opposite). Return to Th U Thong and go east before turning into Th Chee Kun. Pop into Wat Phra Mahathat (Click here) and neighbouring Wat Ratburana (Click here).
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CYCLING TOUR FACTS
Start Th Rotchana
Finish Th Chee Kun
Distance 10km
Duration four hours
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Tours
Informal boat tours (from 200B per hour) can be arranged at the pier near the night market or at guesthouses. Several guesthouses offer night tours of the ruins (200B per person). These tours can be cancelled at the last minute if not enough people sign up.
If you’d like more in-depth coverage of Ayuthaya history, talk to TAT (0 3524 6076; 108/22 Th Si Sanphet; 8.30am-4.30pm) about hiring a guide.
A variety of cycling tours are available on and off the island through Ayutthaya Boat and Travel (0 2746 1414; www.ayutthaya-boat.com), off Th Rotchana. Two-day trips around the countryside involve staying overnight with a local family and a canal cruise.
Festivals & Events
In November, the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre (Click here) is the place to be for the Loi Kratong festival. Hundreds of beautiful lotus-shaped vessels containing candles and incense sticks are set afloat from the riverside. In late January the centre holds its annual fair, complete with traditional song and dance shows.
The Thailand International Swan-Boat Races take place on Mae Nam Chao Phraya at the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre every September.
Sleeping
Backpackers tend to head for Soi 2, Th Naresuan, where there is a modest collection of equally modest guesthouses. Midrange and top-end options can be found along the more scenic riverfront. Look for substantial discounts during the low season (April to November).
BUDGET
Baan Gao Suan (0 3526 1732; Ko Kert; r 150-250B) Those after that authentic homestay experience can stay with the village chief, who will arrange some hands-on activities. Talk to TAT for details (Click here).
Baan Are Gong (0 3523 5592; siriporntan@yahoo.com.sg; off Th Rotchana; s/d 150/350B; ) In the soi opposite the train station is this gorgeous 100-year-old teak guesthouse, run by a Thai-Chinese family. The 4B ferry to the island is just yards away.
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HELPING AN OLD FRIEND
Elephants have played an integral part in Thai history, helping to fight wars, build cities and transport kings.
Today their status, and numbers, have diminished and they are often seen walking city streets begging for bananas. There are only 4000 domestic and wild elephants left in Thailand and, as their natural habitat has been reduced and logging is illegal, their main domestic use is now within the tourism industry.
The Ayuthaya Elephant Palace (08 0668 7727; www.elephantstay.com) does its part to raise the profile of the animal, and the mahout. It provides rides for tourists around the city ruins, runs a successful breeding program and holds several innovative promotional activities. Elephants from the kraal even featured in Oliver Stone’s movie Alexander and Jackie Chan’s Around the World in 80 Days.
Some of the 90 elephants have turned their trunks to art. Their paintings are so impressive that some have been transformed into dresses and featured in a New York fashion show. Even their dung has a purpose – it’s made into paper, bookmarks and photo albums.
The elephants