Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [156]
Ayuthaya is famed for its sweet Muslim snacks, curries and nám prík (spicy dip). Travellers tend to congregate around Soi 2, Th Naresuan, where there’s a collection of Western-friendly restaurants to be found. Many riverfront restaurants specialise in seafood and have great views of the temples. The bustling undercover Chao Phrom Market (Th Naresuan) has Thai-Chinese and Muslim dishes.
Hua Raw Night Market (Th U Thong) A great evening option, with simple riverfront seating. Along with the usual Thai dishes there are several Muslim food stalls; look for the green star and crescent.
Roti Sai Mai Stalls (Th U Thong; 10am-8pm) Ayuthaya is famous for the Muslim dessert roti sai mai. You make this super-sweet snack yourself by rolling together thin strands of melted palm sugar and then wrapping them inside the roti. Stalls selling this are mainly found opposite Ayuthaya Hospital.
Lung Lek (Th Chee Kun; dishes 30-40B; 8.30am-4pm) Slurp down delicious noodle soup alongside locals while admiring the view of Wat Ratburana.
Tony’s Place (Soi 2, Th Naresuan; dishes 50-180B) Ever-busy, Tony’s guesthouse restaurant has a solid Thai/Western menu, including plenty of veggie nibbles.
Baan Watcharachai (off Th Worachate; dishes 75-150B) This charming, peaceful restaurant is found next to Wat Kasatrathirat. Pick a seat on the wooden boat moored outside and tuck in to some yam plaa dùk fòo (crispy catfishsalad).
Sombat Chao Phraya (Th U Thong; dishes 80-140B; 10am-9.30pm) A cosy riverside establishment that specialises in sublime seafood.
Baan Khun Phra (0 3524 1978; dishes 80-140B; 48/2 Th U Thong) Behind the guesthouse of the same name, this restaurant has a pleasant riverside atmosphere and good Thai, Western and vegetarian choices.
Sai Thong (Th U Thong; dishes 80-140B; 10am-10.30pm) This hugely popular riverside restaurant has an extensive seafood menu and old-school feel.
Rabieng Nam (cnr Th Rotchana & Th Chee Kun; dishes 100-160B; 5pm-midnight) When Thais eat it’s as much about fun as it is about food. That’s evident here, where improvised karaoke sessions take centre stage as the locals munch on snacks.
Drinking
Ayuthaya isn’t much of a night bird, and most backpackers are content to hang around Soi 2, Th Naresuan after dark.
Jazz Bar (Soi 2) Run by four music-loving locals who often break out the drums and double bass.
Spin (cnr Th Naresuan & Th Khlong Makhamriang) Young Thais sip fruit/vodka combos and munch fried snacks at this funky street bar.
Off the island, Ay By Laser (AY) nightclub, near the northern bus terminal, is surrounded by karaoke bars that attracts the city’s party crowd.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Several tour companies run boats along the river to Bangkok; see tours, Click here. Boat Step Travel (08 9744 2672, 1500B) runs daily trips, leaving from Ayuthaya at 11.30am and arriving in Bangkok at 4.30pm.
BUS
Ayuthaya has two bus terminals. The long-distance terminal is 5km east of central Ayuthaya and serves destinations north of the city. The provincial bus stop is on Th Naresuan, a short walk from the guesthouse area. Buses from Bangkok arrive two blocks away from the main bus terminal.
Buses to Bangkok’s northern terminal (56B, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes) stop by the old Don Muang Airport. If you’re coming straight from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, take a bus to Bangkok’s northern bus terminal, Mo Chit (Click here).
Minivans go to and from Bangkok’s Victory Monument (65B, two hours, every hour from 5am to 7pm), and leave Ayuthaya from Th Naresuan, west of the main bus terminal.
Buses to Lopburi (40B, two hours, every 45 minutes) also depart from the terminal on Th Naresuan. If you’re heading for Kanchanaburi, you’ll need to get a bus to Suphanburi (60B, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes) and then connect to a Kanchanaburi-bound bus for 50B. Large sŏrng·ta·ou (also spelt sǎwngthǎew; pick-up trucks) leave for Bang Pa In (25B, 45 minutes) every 20 minutes.
The ticket office for the northern bus terminal is a five-minute walk from the station. Destinations include Sukhothai (291B to 371B, six hours,