Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [157]
TRAIN
The train station is east of central Ayuthaya and is accessible by a quick cross-river ferry (4B).
Trains leave Bangkok’s Hualamphong station for Ayuthaya (ordinary/rapid/express 15/20/315B, 1½ hours) throughout the day with more departures between 7am and 11am and 6pm to 10pm. Schedules are available from the information booth at Hualamphong station. To save time, use Bangkok’s subway system to go to Bang Sue station, where you can hook up with the state railway line.
From Ayuthaya, you can head north to Chiang Mai (ordinary/rapid/express 586/856/1198B, six departures a day), or northeast to Pak Chong (ordinary/rapid/express 23/73/130B, frequent departures), the nearest station to Khao Yai National Park, and Khon Kaen (ordinary/rapid/express 173/265/375B, six hours, four departures a day). Sŏrng·ta·ou from the station to the city centre charge 60B.
Getting Around
Around every corner is a shm·lór or túk-túk waiting to ask where you’re going. The golden rule is to agree a price before you get on. For trips on the island itself, the rate is 30B to 40B.
The main ruins are close together, so the most environmentally friendly way to see them is by bicycle or elephant. Many guesthouses rent bicycles (30B) and motorcycles (200B). You can take brief rides around the temples by elephant (400B to 500B) or by horse and carriage (300B). The elephants stay at a kraal on Th Pa Thon.
Long-tail boat tours around the island (from 200B per hour) can be arranged at the pier near the night market or at guesthouses.
AROUND AYUTHAYA
Return to beginning of chapter
Bang Pa In
Bang Pa In Palace (0 3526 1548; admission 100B; 8am-3.30pm) is worth viewing simply for its eclectic mix of architectural styles. The European, Chinese and Thai buildings seem incongruous at first, but reflect the influences of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn, r 1868–1910). King Chula was a progressive leader who studied Western traditions. After returning from Europe he restored the palace, which was first built in the 17th century. Today there is a replica of the Tiber Bridge in Rome, the Chinese-style Wehut Chamrun, the Victorian-influenced Withun Thatsana, and an elephant-shaped topiary garden.
In 1880, Queen Sunanta drowned during a journey to the palace. Thai law forbade courtiers from touching the queen, and so nobody tried to save her. As a result of the tragedy King Rama V changed the law. A marble obelisk in memory of the queen is in the palace grounds.
Wat Niwet Thamaprawat, to the rear of the palace car park, is the most unlikely of temples. Designed to resemble a cathedral, its Gothic style, stained-glass windows and knights in armour stand in contrast to the Buddha images. Take a free, monk-operated cable car to the other side of the water.
To reach the palace, take a public sŏrng·ta·ou (25B, frequent departures) from the provincial bus stop on Th Naresuan. Once the sŏrng·ta·ou drops you at the Bang Pa In bus station, jump on a motorbike taxi (30B) to the palace, which is 4km away. The alternative is a train from Ayuthaya (3rd class 3B, 30 minutes). The train station is closer to the palace than the bus station, but again you’ll need a motorbike taxi (20B) to complete the last leg.
Another 17km southwest of the palace is the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre (0 3536 6252; www.bangsaiarts.com; 9am-5pm). Opened back in 1984 with support from Queen Sirikit, this 180-hectare site helps preserve traditional Thai handicraft skills. Farmers create products on-site to help provide a supplementary income during the off-season. Visitors can visit workshops where locals carve wood, dye silk or make knives. Jewellery, clothing and textiles can be bought at the Sala Phra Ming Kwan pavilion and in a purpose-built arts and crafts village.
A Bird Park (admission 20B) and two giant cylindrical aquariums displaying huge freshwater fish from