Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [158]
To get to the centre, take a train or sŏrng·ta·ou to Bang Pa In and then hire a motorbike taxi.
LOPBURI PROVINCE
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LOPBURI
Laid-back Lopburi is a small, charming town where temple ruins sit alongside noodle stalls and street markets.
It’s a simple task to stroll between the main sights in a day or two and soak up the history of a town that once played an important role in the Dvaravati, Khmer, Sukhothai and Ayuthaya empires.
Early-morning or evening street markets are great places to wander and experience life in a provincial Thai town. The easygoing pace only shifts a gear when locals chase away Lopburi’s most notorious residents –a troop of monkeys. These macaques live among the ruins, but don’t be surprised to see their mischievous faces peering into your hotel room either.
The town is famous for its sunflower fields, coconut jelly and rattan furniture, while sugar cane and rice are the main crops.
Most visitors pass through Lopburi, which is approximately 150km north of Bangkok, briefly en route to the north of the country.
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History
One of Thailand’s oldest cities, Lopburi first came to prominence during the Dvaravati period (6th to 11th centuries).
When the Khmer empire advanced eastwards in the 10th century it had a major influence over the town’s architecture and artwork. Many previous buildings were destroyed and so today the town’s extant ruins, notably Prang Sam Yot and Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, have strong Khmer features.
Lopburi, then known as Lavo, was a frontier town for the Khmer empire and became an administration and trade hub. The rise of the Sukhothai empire saw a decline in Lopburi’s fortunes, but during the Ayuthaya period it was a second capital and hosted many influential foreign dignitaries. These outside influences led to advances in architecture, astronomy and literature.
King Narai fortified the town in the mid-17th century when the Dutch threatened a naval blockade. In 1665 he built a palace in Lopburi, and died there in 1688.
Orientation
Lopburi comes in two parts: the compact old town is on one side of the railway tracks, while on the other is the larger, and distinctly less charming, new town. The old town is walkable and houses all the significant historical sites.
Information
There are several banks in the old part of Lopburi, and a string of internet cafes along Th Na Phra Kan (going rate 20B per hour).
Communications Authority of Thailand (CAT; Th Phra Narai Maharat; 8.30am-4.30pm)
Hospital (0 3662 1537-45; Th Ramdecho)
Nature Adventure (0 3642 7693; kkhumwong@yahoo.com; 15-17 Th Phraya Kamjat) Can organise rock-climbing tours to Khao Chin Lae.
Police (0 3642 4515; Th Na Phra Kan)
Post office (Th Phra Narai Maharat)
TAT (0 3642 2768-9; Th Phraya Kamjat; 8.30am-4.30pm) Pick up a copy of TAT’s excellent map here.
Zon Coffee Bar (Th Naresuan) Free wi-fi.
Sights
PHRA NARAI RATCHANIWET
This former royal palace (entrance Th Sorasak; admission 150B; gallery 8.30am-4pm Wed-Sun, palace grounds 7am-5.30pm) is the best place to begin your walking tour of Lopburi’s ruins.
The palace grounds house the Lopburi Museum (officially called the Somdet Phra Narai National Museum), which has interesting displays explaining the history of the province. The museum is divided among three separate buildings. In the Phiman Mongkut Pavilion there are sculptures and art from the Lopburi, Khmer, Dvaravati, U Thong and Ayuthaya periods. The Chantara Phisan Throne Hall contains paintings and artefacts in memory of King Narai, while the European-style Phra Pratiab Building has a small display of traditional handicrafts and hunting tools.
French and Italian engineers helped design the palace, which was built between 1665 and 1677. Lopburi was used as a second capital during the reign of Ayuthaya’s King Narai. The monarch welcomed foreign dignitaries here and stayed at the palace during hunting vacations.
After King Narai’s death in 1688 the palace was abandoned until