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The main entry point for the palace is through Pratu Phayakkha gate, off Th Sorasak. To your left, as you walk through the large gate, are what remains of the palace reservoir and the former reception hall where foreign envoys were once greeted.

Ahead of these are the elephant stables and towards the rear of the compound is the Suttha Sawan throne hall, where King Narai died. A 150B one-day pass to all the ruins can be bought from here.

Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat

Opposite the train station is this 13th-century Khmer wát (Th Na Phra Kan; admission 50B; 7am-5pm). Once the town’s largest monastery, it has been heavily renovated and makes for a great photo opportunity. The central Phra Prang has a bas-relief depicting the life of the Buddha.

Prang Sam Yot

This shrine (Th Wichayen; admission 50B; 8am-6pm) is the old town’s best-known and most-photographed feature. The three linked towers originally symbolised the Hindu Trimurti of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. Now two of them contain ruined Lopburi-style Buddha images. The towers are accessible and offer cool relief from the heat – and the monkeys.

Young guides may offer to show you around and, while their English is minimal, their catapults will keep the monkeys at bay. The monument is the best example of Khmer-Lopburi architecture, and looks especially good at night when it is illuminated.

Chao Phraya Wichayen

King Narai built this Thai-European palace (Th Wichayen; admission 50B; 9am-4pm) as a residence for foreign ambassadors. Greek diplomat and trader Constantine Phaulkon was its most famous resident. Phaulkon’s knowledge of European technology helped him gain a place in King Narai’s inner circle. However, jealous courtiers disliked his power and riches, and as Narai lay dying, Phaulkon was arrested and beheaded. The palace is across the street and northeast of Wat Sao Thong Thong.

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MONKEY MAYHEM

If you see people running around Lopburi with 2m-long poles and catapults, they haven’t all gone mad. These are just some of the methods locals employ in a vain attempt to prevent the monkeys from taking over. The monkeys (a type of macaque) are an essential part of Lopburi’s character and in the old town there is simply no avoiding them. Scampering along overhead cables, pounding a passage over corrugated roofs or squabbling over a piece of mango, they are omnipresent.

Their favourite haunts are San Phra Kan (Kala Shrine; Th Wichayan) and Prang Sam Yot (Th Wichayan). While visiting these places, put bottles of water and anything that may be mistaken for food inside a bag. Any bottles out on display will be considered fair game. The monkeys don’t live exclusively in the ruins though; the troop is just as likely to run across your hotel balcony or dangle from a shop’s awnings.

While locals may use catapults to keep the simians at bay, the monkeys are never harmed, partly due to the Buddhist belief of preserving all forms of life. In addition, some feel the animals are ‘descendants’ of the Hindu god Kala and so to injure one would be seriously bad karma. During the last week of November a feast is held at Prang Sam Yot to thank the monkeys for helping to bring prosperity to Lopburi. Each year there is a theme to the food, such as fruit or ice cream. Tables are neatly laid out with all kinds of treats and the monkeys are then free to indulge themselves, for which they need no persuasion. A feeding station has been set up to discourage the monkeys from pilfering tourists’ food, and so at 10am and 4pm every day vegetables and fruit are distributed next to the San Phra Kan shrine.

Look out for the burly security officer who zealously guards the shrine’s entrance with her police truncheon to prevent any animals from getting inside. One of the strangest sights here is the wild monkeys who watch with bemusement as their cousins are made to perform in a show. Inside a small pavilion the animals jump through hoops of fire and play basketball with coconuts.

Care should be taken when around