Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [160]
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PRANG KHAEK
This 11th-century tower is on a triangular piece of land bordered by Th Wichayen to the north. The structure has Khmer-style brickwork and may have once been a temple to the Hindu god Shiva.
Other Ruins
Just along from the railway station is Wat Nakhon Kosa (Th Na Phra Kan). Built in the 12th century, it may have originally been a Hindu shrine. The main chedi was built during the Dvararati period, while the wí·hhn was added later by King Narai. To the rear is a collection of headless Buddha images.
Northwest of the palace centre, Wat Sao Thong Thong (Th Wichayen) is remarkable only for its unusual Gothic-style windows, which were added by King Narai so it could be used as a Christian chapel. The grounds may have once served as a residence for Persian ambassadors.
Wat Phra Bat Nam Phu
Monks at this temple care for HIV/AIDS patients and are involved in several outreach projects. Set beside mist-covered mountains and verdant fields, the temple offers a tranquil setting for its patients. The Buddhist philosophy that death is merely a part of life and not something to fear is particularly evident in the ‘Life Museum’. This displays the preserved bodies of men, women and children who have succumbed to the disease. Sculptures using bone resin are also on display. It is possible to spend time volunteering at the temple, but visitors should remember that this is a home for patients, not a tourist attraction, so respect and sensitivity are essential. The temple is 4km off Th Phahol Yothin.
Bat caves
Out of town there are several caves and scenic spots. The best of these is the bat cave at Khao Wong Kot, 20km northwest of Lopburi. At sunset thousands of bats emerge for their nocturnal hunt. The cave can be reached by taking a train (5B) north from Lopburi to Nong Sai Khao station and then catching a motorbike taxi. The last train back to Lopburi departs at 4.45pm.
Activities
ROCK CLIMBING
Nearby Khao Chin Lae has more than 40 climbing routes, meaning there is a way up for just about anyone. Those who conquer the mountain are rewarded with views of Lopburi’s famous sunflower fields (providing they come between November and January when the flowers are in bloom). If you want to just see the sunflowers, take the bus from Lopburi to Ban Muang (18B) and ask the driver to stop at Khao Chin Lae.
Festivals & Events
For three days in mid-February the King Narai Festival (www.thailandgrandfestival.com) is held at the Phra Narai Ratchaniwet. Locals don traditional clothes and stage a colourful parade that leads to the former palace. Highlights include a demonstration of lá·kon ling (a traditional drama performed by monkeys).
The real macaques take centre stage during the last week of November for their very own Monkey Festival (see the boxed text, Click here). Thousands gather to watch the simians devour their banquet.
Sleeping
Options in Lopburi are limited to basic budget rooms with fading paint. Staying in the old town means you will be close to the historic ruins, and also the monkeys. If you prefer not to have monkeys scurrying around outside your window, choose a hotel away from Prang Sam Yot. There are midrange options in the new town but you’ll need transport.
BUDGET
It’s almost impossible to have anything but a budget room in Lopburi. The rooms may be dated, but in the old town they’re close to everything.
Noom Guest House (0 3642 7693; kkhumwong@yahoo.com; Th Phraya Kamjat; r 150-300B) Bamboo-roofed bungalows facing a leafy garden make this one of the more pleasant places to stay. Upstairs rooms have shared bathrooms.
Sri Indra Hotel (0 3641 1261; Th Na Phra Kan; r 200-300B; ) Opposite the train station, the Sri Indra has views of the San Phra Kan shrine, neat rooms and great service.
Lopburi Asia Hotel (0