Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [166]
For those with less time, the countryside close to Kanchanaburi is replete with wonderful vistas and a bicycle is an ideal way to see them. One particularly scenic route lies immediately behind the backpacker guesthouses. From the northern end of Th Mae Nam Khwae, cross Sutjai Bridge and bear right. Explore Baan Thamakham and Baan Hua Hin, where lemongrass, corn, tapioca and teak trees soak up the sun while in the distance mist-covered mountains serve as a breathtaking backdrop.
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DON’T BE A BUFFALO
The Bridge on the River Kwai movie made the waterway famous, and also ensured a generation grew up pronouncing it incorrectly. You should talk about the River Khwae (sounds like ‘square’ without the ‘s’) and not Kwai (sounds like ‘why’). Get it wrong and you’ll be talking about the River Buffalo, which the Thais always find very amusing.
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SINGING THE KARAOKE BLUES
The rivers running through Kanchanaburi look to be among the most peaceful places you could hope to find. They are generally quiet and tranquil, but come nightfall the karaoke/disco boats pump up the volume and serenity is forced to take a back seat.
Every weekend, Bangkokians and many Asian tourists are bussed in and taken onboard karaoke boats. The commotion used to make guesthouses along Soi Rong Hip Oi very unappealing, but now the all-nighters have stopped and they are just a temporary nuisance as they go by.
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Some package tours are cancelled if not enough people sign up, so check before booking. The following agencies are reputable:
AS Mixed Travel (0 3451 2017; www.applenoi-kanchanaburi.com; Apple’s Guesthouse, Th Chaokunen) A well-organised company with longevity. Trips can be tailor-made to suit travellers’ preferences, and pockets.
Good Times (0 3462 4441; www.good-times-travel.com; 63/1 Tha Mae Nam Khwae) All the standard day trips are available, as well as adventure packages to more remote areas. Cycling tours can be arranged from here.
kAYAKING
Paddling down the river in a canoe or kayak is a great way to get around. The French-managed Safarine (0 3462 5567; www.safarine.com; Th Mae Nam Khwae) arranges one- or two-day trips tailored to suit the customer.
Sleeping
Along a 1km stretch of Th Mae Nam Khwae there are numerous guesthouses offering simple rooms, usually with riverfront views. Across the river there are midrange and top-end resorts that come with all the bells and whistles you’d expect. The former backpacker mainstay along Soi Th Rong Hip Oi is much quieter these days due to the occasional karaoke cacophony from passing boats, but the disturbances are less frequent than before and there are budget guesthouses available here.
Along Th Saengchuto there are several midrange guesthouses, but the rooms nearer the river are cheaper and have far more character. Check out Kanchanaburi Info (www.kanchanaburi-info.com) for more choices.
BUDGET
The best deals in town can be found along the fast-growing Th Mae Nam Khwae strip. Rooms are basic but often come with great river views. During the peak season, and especially December, it’s wise to call ahead to book a room with a view.
Jolly Frog (0 3451 4579; 28 Soi China; s 70B, d 150-290B; ) It may lack a few of life’s finer things, like towels and flushing toilets, but the backpackers who roll in from Th Khao San don’t seem to mind.
Blue Star Guest House (0 3451 2161; 241 Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 150-650B; ) Accommodation here ranges from backpacker simplicity to comfy rooms with air-con and TV. The mangled-looking wood on the riverfront bungalows is impressive.
Pong Phen (0 3451 2981; www.pongphen.com; Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 150-900B; ) Comfortable rooms, a good restaurant and a pool make Pong Phen stand out from the rest.