Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [167]
Bamboo House (0 3462 4470; 3-5 Soi Vietnam, Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 200-500B; ) Set a little way from the main action, the river raft rooms and spacious garden give the place a genuine away-from-it-all vibe.
Apple’s Guesthouse (0 3451 2017; www.applenoi-kanchanaburi.com; 3/17 Th Chaokunen; r with fan/air-con 450/650B; ) Apple and Noi’s new guesthouse comes with the same hospitality and expertise as their old one. Noi’s one-day Thai cooking courses (Click here) are popular.
VN Guest House (0 3451 4082; www.vnguesthouse.net; 44 Soi Th Rong Hip Oi; r 250-450B; ) Away from the main strip, these simple raft-house rooms have some of the best views of the river, but you may have to put up with the odd passing karaoke boat.
Sam’s House (0 3451 5956; www.samsguesthouse.com; Th Mae Nam Khwae; d 450-600B; ) Bright and airy from reception to terrace, rooms are basic but come with some of the finest views of the lotus-covered water. Fan rooms are particularly good value.
MIDRANGE
Many midrange places offer discounts during the low season (April to November), but reservations should be made in advance.
Ploy Guesthouse (0 3451 5804; www.ploygh.com; 79/2 Th Mae Nam Kwai; r 600-950B; ) Stylish and chic, this guesthouse stands head and shoulders above its budget-style neighbours. Outside bathrooms and a pleasant rooftop terrace are great extra touches.
Thai Garden Inn (08 5819 1686; www.thaigardeninn.com; 74/11 M4 Baan Tamakahm; r 650-850B; ) Set just behind bustling Th Mae Nam Khwae is this peaceful 11-bungalow resort. Rooms are tastefully furnished with natural materials, while the upstairs restaurant is the place to be come sunset.
Kasem Island Resort (0 3451 3359, in Bangkok 0 2255 3604; r 800-1600B; ) Located on an island in Mae Nam Mae Klong, here you can sit by your balcony and dip your toes in the water. Terraces and pavilions make great places from which to view the surrounding scenery. A free shuttle boat runs to and from Th Chaichumphon.
Bousawan Resort (0 3451 4324; off Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 1000B; ) This gorgeous Thai-style resort with bungalows and raft rooms set among spacious grounds is a little removed from the main area, so transport is required.
TOP END
Although the following places fall into the top-end category, they do vary in quality. Most resorts are north of the bridge on either side of the river. Shop the online booking services for discounts.
River Kwai Hotel (0 3451 3348; www.riverkwai.co.th; 284/3-16 Th Saengchuto; r from 1500B; ) The best option for those wanting to stay in the centre of town, but the rooms are unremarkable. The hotel includes ‘Glitzy’, the only nightclub in town.
Royal River Kwai Resort & Spa (0 3465 3297; 88 Kanchanaburi-Saiyok Rd; r from 2450B; ) Beautiful grounds and chic rooms make this a splendid resort. The spa, with riverfront rooms, has a range of health treatments.
Felix River Kwai Resort (0 3455 1000; www.felixhotels.com; r from 3500B; ) Kanchanaburi’s granddaddy of resorts is starting to show its age but it remains a luxurious option with all manner of facilities.
Eating
Food options are numerous in Kanchanaburi. The night market (Th Saengchuto; Thu-Tue) near the train station has a busy food section offering satays, shakes and even sandwiches. Food stalls light up the roadside close to the River Kwai Hotel on Th Saengchuto, while down by Th Song Khwae there are some good-quality floating restaurants, which are usually full of package-company tourists. Th Mae Nam Khwae has many Western-style restaurants. The market (Th Saengchuto) near the bus station is well known for its excellent hŏy tôrt (fried mussels in an egg batter).
Saisowo (no roman-script sign; Th Chaokunen; dishes 20-30B; 8am-4pm) A long-running noodle emporium with some of the finest gŏo·ay ĕe·o mŏo for miles around.
Krua Chukkadon (no roman-script sign; Th Chukkadon; dishes 40-100B) This simple floating restaurant near the JEATH War Museum has a limited menu, but what it does, it does well. There’s a bilingual menu and monolingual, though thoroughly