Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [168]
Jukkru (no roman-script sign; Th Song Khwae; dishes 50-120B) It lacks the glamour of the floating restaurants opposite, but Jukkru compensates with superb Thai cuisine. There is an unusually large vegetarian selection for a Thai restaurant. Look for the blue tables and chairs outside.
Drinking
Tourists tend to sip their beers along Th Mae Nam Khwae, which has several bars including the backpackers’ retreat Buddha Bar and 1 More Bar; there are pool tables and even prostitutes towards the busier southern end. Thais meanwhile head to Th Song Khwae, which has a handful of restaurants and bars.
No Name Bar (Th Mae Nam Khwae) You have to admire any bar that has the logo ‘Get shitfaced on a shoestring’ emblazoned on its wall. The irreverent theme continues inside, along with a solid supply of snacks, veggie dishes and cocktails.
Tham Naan (Th Song Khwae) Live Thai band and a relaxed country theme. Whisky lovers will appreciate the variety of choices.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Kanchanaburi’s bus station (0 3451 5907; Th Saengchuto) is to the south of the town. The following destinations are served: Bangkok’s southern bus terminal (112B, three hours, every 20 minutes between 3.30am and 8pm), Bangkok’s northern bus terminal (2nd/1st class 108/139B, three hours, every hour between 6.30am and 6pm), Nakhon Pathom (50B, two hours, every 15 minutes between 4am and 6.30pm) taking the old Bangkok route and departing from platform 14, Sangkhlaburi (2nd/1st class 174/273B, four hours, frequent between 7.30am and 4.30pm) and Suphanburi (50B, two hours, every 20 minutes between 4.50am and 6pm), from where you can connect to Ayuthaya and Lopburi.
If you’re going south, head for Ratchaburi (50B, two hours, frequent departures) and change to a Hua Hin- or Phetchaburi-bound bus. If you’re heading north, the quickest option is to head back to Bangkok’s northern bus terminal and find a ride there.
TRAIN
Kanchanaburi’s train station is around 2km northwest of the bus station. Kanchanaburi is on the Bangkok Noi–Nam Tok rail line, which includes a portion of the historic ’Death Railway’ built by WWII POWs during the Japanese occupation of Thailand. The SRT promotes this as a historic route, and so charges foreigners 100B for any one-way journey along the line, no matter how short the distance. Coming from Bangkok Noi station (located in Thonburi), 100B isn’t a bad price, but for short trips in Kanchanaburi it’s extremely steep.
The most historic part of the journey begins north of Kanchanaburi as the train crosses the Death Railway Bridge and terminates at Nam Tok station. Ordinary trains leave Thonburi’s Bangkok Noi station at 7.44am and 1.55pm for Kanchanaburi. Trains do the return trip leaving Kanchanaburi at 7.19am and 2.44pm. The journey takes three hours.
Trains along the historic section of the rail line leave Kanchanaburi heading north to Nam Tok at 5.57am, 10.50am and 4.19pm. Return trains depart from Nam Tok at 5.20am, 12.50pm and 3.15pm. The trip takes about two hours. From Nam Tok train station it’s possible to walk to Sai Yok Noi waterfall, or you can flag down one of the frequent Sangkhlaburi–Kanchanaburi buses.
The SRT runs a daily tourist train (0 3451 1285) from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok (one way 300B). This is the same train that carries the 100B passengers, but if you want to pay the extra you’ll be rewarded with a certificate and a snack.
Getting Around
Trips from the bus station to the guesthouse area will cost 50B on a shm·lór and 30B on a motorcycle taxi. Public sŏrng·ta·ou run up and down Th Saengchuto for 10B per passenger (get off at the cemetery if you want the guesthouse area). The train station is within walking distance of the guesthouse area.
Motorcycles can be rented at guesthouses and shops along Th Mae Nam Khwae for 150B a day. Bicycle rentals cost 50B.
The river ferry that crosses Mae Nam Mae Klong costs 5B per person for a one-way trip.
Long-tail boats offer 1½-hour trips to various attractions by the riverside. Prices start at 700B but are negotiable, depending on how many are in a