Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [170]
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TURNING OVER THE WRONG LEAF
The tapioca fields around Kanchanaburi occasionally get special attention from travellers. Tour guides report seeing visitors surreptitiously picking leaves and stuffing them into their bags. The guides then have to patiently explain that while the leaves may closely resemble a marijuana plant, they are just plain old tapioca.
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To the northeast of the main temple are the remains of a smaller shrine whose original contents and purpose are unknown. Near the main entrance to the complex at the north gate is a small exhibition hall that contains various sculptures of Mahayana Buddhist deities and stucco decorations, most of which are reproductions.
Prasat Meuang Singh is 40km west of Kanchanaburi and is best reached by private transport. Trains heading from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok stop nearby at Tha Kilen station (100B; see opposite for train departure times). From here it’s a 1km walk to the entrance, but it’s best having some form of transport as the grounds are large.
Ban Kao Neolithic Museum
During WWII a Dutch POW named HR van Heekeren unearthed a collection of ancient stone tools in Ban Kao, around 7km from Meuang Singh. After the war the former archaeologist returned and much of what he helped to excavate is now displayed in this museum (admission 50B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun).
The Thai-Danish project led the excavation and concluded that the area was an important Neolithic burial site, dating back around 5000 years.
Fairly uninspiring displays detail the geology and geography of the province, while the most intriguing feature is a collection of hollowed-out tree trunks that may have once been boats, or coffins.
Ban Kao is best reached by private transport. The train heading north of Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok stops 6km away at Tha Kilen stop (100B; Click here for train departure times). There might be motorcycle taxis available at the train station for the remaining 3km trip to the museum.
Daen Maha Mongkol Meditation Centre
If you’ve ever dreamt of a world without TV, telephones and email, then this meditation centre (5am-6pm) could be the answer. Founded in 1986, the retreat is well known among locals. Tamara, an English woman who has lived here for several years, can help with the two-hour meditation classes, which take place at 4am and 6pm. It’s worth dropping by to drink in the serene atmosphere of the centre, which is set among beautifully maintained grounds. Cross the teak bridge over Mae Nam Khwae Noi to get in, and first pay respects before the wooden Buddha image in the meditation pavilion.
About 300 people stay at the centre, 200 of them permanently. Most are nuns, but there is a separate area for men. There is no charge for visiting or even staying at the centre, but donations are appreciated. Basic accommodation is available for those who want to immerse themselves in life here. White shirts and trousers are provided free at the entrance and should be worn.
The centre is off Hwy 323, 12km from the Tiger Temple, and is well signposted. By train, get off at Maha Mongkol station.
Tiger Temple (Wat Luang Ta Bua Yanna Sampanno)
Kanchanaburi’s most expensive tourist attraction is also its most controversial. This monastery (0 3453 1557; admission 500B; 12.30-3.30pm) affords incredible photo opportunities for visitors to get up close and personal with the big cats. Some of the temple’s 30 tigers pose for pictures in a canyon while visitors are shepherded in and out in quick succession.
Despite the endless queues, the attraction has long been a source of controversy. Some ask why the tigers are so docile and others question the increasingly high entry fees. Abbot Phra Chan, who established the site in 1994, told Lonely Planet that the tigers are never drugged and are