Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [171]
Work on an ‘island’ enclosure is under way but it will be some time yet before the 20 million baht project is complete. The opportunity to get so close to such awesome animals is rare, but we would encourage potential visitors to do their own research before deciding whether to go. If you do go, avoid wearing ‘hot’ colours, such as red or orange, which could excite the tigers.
The temple is 38km from Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323. You can take the Kanchanaburi–Sangkhlaburi public bus to the temple turn-off, from where it’s a 2km walk to the entrance. Most travellers book an afternoon tour with a travel company.
Allegations about tiger trading, poor treatment of the animals and a lack of progress in developing the site (despite the rising entry fees) have been made, and denied by the temple. Visit www.careforthewild.org to see the UK conservation group’s report on the temple.
Sai Yok Noi Waterfall
If you want to see how Thais enjoy themselves, there is no better place than this waterfall, which is part of Sai Yok National Park (opposite). Thais flock here at weekends to sit on mats, munch sôm·am (spicy green papaya salad) and watch the water tumble over the sloping rocks. Teenagers clamber up the rocks while younger children paddle in the shallow pools below.
The waterfall is 60km northwest from Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323 and easily reached by using the Sangkhlaburi–Kanchanaburi bus (45B, one hour, frequent departures); tell your driver you’re going to nám òk sai yôhk nóy. The last bus back is at 5pm. Nam Tok train station is 2km away (100B; Click here for train departure times).
Hellfire Pass Memorial
This museum (www.dva.gov.au/commem/oawg/thailand.htm; admission by donation; 9am-4pm) is a joint Thai-Australian project that remembers the tragedy of the ’Death Railway’ in a simple and dignified manner. The museum doesn’t have many artefacts, simply because there was so little equipment for prisoners to use, but it does use displays and video clips of survivors to outline events. A 4km-long walking trail (which takes three hours round trip) runs along the original railbed.
Close to the start of the trail, the most famous cutting is Hellfire Pass (known locally as Konyu Cutting). The area earned its name following the three-month ‘Speedo’ construction period where shifts of 500 prisoners worked 16 to 18 hours a day. The glow from burning torches cast eerie shadows of the Japanese guards and on the gaunt prisoners’ faces, so that the scene was said to resemble Dante’s Inferno.
Poor hygiene, a lack of medical equipment and the brutal treatment of prisoners claimed the lives of around 15,000 Allied prisoners of war. A further 100,000 civilian labourers from Southeast Asian countries also died.
The walk along the track includes stunning views of Khwae Noi Valley towards Myanmar and the Pack of Cards bridge, which earned its name after collapsing three times.
A walking trail map and audio guide are available. The museum is 80km northwest of Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323 and can be reached by Sangkhlaburi–Kanchanaburi bus (50B, 1½ hours, frequent departures). The last bus back to Kanchanaburi passes here at 4.30pm.
National Parks
Northern Kanchanaburi has a collection of national parks (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th) that are home to cascading waterfalls, thick jungle and an array of wildlife. They form part of the Western Forest Complex, one of Asia’s largest protected areas.
Entry to the parks is 200B for foreigners. Bungalows and camping facilities are available at most sites, but it is important to book ahead.
Park headquarters have free booklets and maps, and guides can be hired for 200B to 300B. The temperature range here can be between 8°C and 45°C, depending on the time of year, so bring appropriate clothing.