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Thung Yai Naresuan (meaning large field) takes its name from its enormous central grassland plain and the fact that King Naresuan once used the area as a temporary army base. Among the more unusual features are limestone sink holes, some of which are 2km long and 30m deep. Archaeologists believe the area has remains from the Pleistocene period, but for now these remain hidden away as no major research has been undertaken.

Huay Kha Khaeng has slightly more amenities and camping sites, though there are no restaurants or bungalows. During the rainy season flooding is common, so it’s important to check the local situation before heading out. The park includes the Khao Hin Daeng nature study route, which can be reached by private transport via Uthai Thani by following Hwy 333, then Hwy 3438. The 6km study route has a pleasant viewpoint at Pong Thian and it’s often possible to spot a great number of birds along this stretch.

There are two camping areas within Huay Kha Khaeng: Cyber Ranger Station and Huay Mae Dee. Cyber Ranger Station is 7km from the main office and has several waterfalls and valleys within trekking distance. The 37km off-road track to Huay Mae Dee passes by a Karen village and is set within thick forest. Thai-speaking guides can be hired from both sites. Camping sites (per tent 30B) are available, but you’ll need to bring all your own equipment.

The main office is best reached by private transport. The closest buses or trains run is to Lan Sak, from where it’s a 35km drive to the office.

Sanctuaries such as these are valuable because they are untouched and so tourism is not encouraged. The few hundred visitors that do come each year usually take part in scientific field trips. Anyone else wanting to enter should first get consent from the Royal Thai Forestry department.

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Sangkhlaburi is a remote town that overlooks the enormous Kheuan Khao Laem (Khao Laem Reservoir), and owes its existence to the waters. It was founded after an old village, near the confluence of the three rivers that feed the dam, was flooded.

Several NGOs in town help the ethnic communities survive and fight for what few rights they have. As a result, there is a constant need for volunteers (see opposite).

The town comes to life on Mon National Day, celebrated during the last week of July.

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Information

For money matters go to Siam Commercial Bank (ATM), near the market. Internet shops are also near the market and charge 25B per hour. There is an international phone in front of the post office on the main street.

Sights & Activities

WANG KHA

Across what is reputedly Thailand’s longest wooden bridge (Saphan Mon) sits this Mon settlement. The village relocated here after the dam’s construction flooded the original settlement. Burma’s constant conflicts pushed many Mon into Thailand and now Wang Kha has its own unmistakable character. Children play a form of cricket in the street, women smoke enormous cheroots and many wear traditional white face powder. The times are definitely changing though; there’s also an internet cafe.

A day market in the centre of the village has pots of delicious Mon curry. North of the market is Wat Wang Wiwekaram (Wat Mon), the spiritual centre of the Mon people in Thailand. The temple has two complexes that are 600m apart. To the right of the T-junction is the multiroofed wí·hhn with heavy, carved wooden doors and marble banisters. To the left of the T-junction is the Chedi Luang Phaw Uttama; this was constructed in a similar style to that of the Mahabodhi chedi in Bodhgaya, India. At night the 6kg of gold that covers it is illuminated. Men may climb the few short steps to the top; women may not. In the same courtyard are an ageing chedi and a handicrafts market.

The temple is famous for being the home of a highly respected monk, Luang Phaw Uttama. Born in Burma in 1910, he fled to Thailand in 1949 to escape the civil war and was a cornerstone of the Mon community. He helped secure this