Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [176]
KHAO LAEM RESERVOIR
This enormous lake was formed when the Vachiralongkorn Dam (known locally as Khao Laem Dam) was constructed across Mae Nam Khwae Noi in 1983. The lake submerged an entire village at the confluence of the Khwae Noi, Ranti and Sangkhalia Rivers. In the dry season it’s still possible to see the spires of the village’s Wat Sam Prasop protruding from the lake.
Canoes, long-tail boats and, sadly, jet-skies, can be found on the lake. Early morning here is a magical time, when mist and the sounds of nature envelope the water. Guesthouses can arrange trips out onto the water.
Volunteering
The large orange building overlooking the town is Baan Unrak (House of Joy; www.baanunrak.org), which cares for orphaned or abandoned children from ethnic groups. Since 1991 the home has grown in line with demand and now 140 children live there. As well as the children’s home, Baan Unrak runs a weaving centre to help provide an income for local women, helps single mothers struggling to raise their children, and works with HIV/AIDS patients. Most of the children at Baan Unrak are Karen and all follow the home’s neo-humanist philosophy of vegetarianism, universal love and meditation.
Due to the large refugee numbers in Sangkhlaburi there is great demand for such services, and volunteers are always needed. The home usually only accepts helpers for six months or longer, but visitors are welcome. The children stage yoga performances at the home every Wednesday at 6pm.
For short-term commitments, consider lending your English-language skills and elbow grease to the remote Hilltribe Learning Centre (via P Guest House; 0 3459 5061); Click here.
Sleeping
Burmese Inn (0 3459 5146; www.sangkhlaburi.com; 52/3 Mu 3; r 120-800B; ) The cheapest place in town, and with good reason. Rooms range from the single, flimsy kind that cling to the hillside, or larger bungalows.
P Guest House (0 3459 5061; www.pguesthouse.com; 8/1 Mu 1; r 252-909;) With English-speaking staff and rooms with fabulous lake views, P Guest House is a safe choice. Fan-rooms are plain and have shared bathrooms. Trips can be arranged from here, along with motorbike, bicycle and canoe hire.
Samprasob Resort (0 3459 5050; www.samprasob.com; 122 Mu 3; r 600-3000B; ) For a touch more comfort, this elegant resort has everything from compact double rooms to two-storey houses for the larger Thai groups that visit at weekends. Breakfast is included.
Eating
Guesthouses tend to be the favourite eating venues, thanks largely to their scenic waterfront locations. As with most Thai towns, the market offers the greatest variety of food. Be sure to sample some of the delicious Thai and Burmese curries (20B).
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WHO ARE THE MON?
The Mon people have a proud history. As well as introducing Theravada Buddhism to the region, their Dvaravati kingdom covered much of the central plains of Thailand and Burma between the 6th and 11th centuries.
Today, many Mon have fled the oppressive regime in Burma and live as refugees around Sangkhlaburi. Less than a million people speak the Mon language and they face a fight to preserve their heritage, beliefs and independence.
For centuries there has been conflict between the Burmese and the Mon. The British exploited this tension during its colonisation of Burma by promising the Mon independence in return for their support. Once Burma achieved independence in 1948, the Mon launched a campaign for self-determination but protests were swiftly crushed, with Mon leaders killed and their villages razed. In 1974 a semi-autonomous state, Monland, was created and a ceasefire was declared in 1996, but clashes continue to this day.
Many Mon escape the violence by crossing the border into Thailand, predominantly around Sangkhlaburi. Of the town’s 47,000 residents, 23,800 are from ethnic groups. Thailand does little more than tolerate their