Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [180]
Picha Bakery (0 3832 4796; cnr Th Jermjompol & Th Surasak 1; coffee 40B, snacks 20-40B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Baked goodies, excellent coffee and spotless air-con surroundings make this a convenient haven from Si Racha’s busy streets. The iced coffee is especially good.
Lahp Ubon (Southeast of Night Square; dishes 20-80B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) An Isan place with yummy nám òk mo (spicy pork salad). The menu doesn’t offer English (and neither does the sign out front), but thankfully it has pictures so just point to whatever looks good.
Moom Aroy (dishes 100-350B; lunch & dinner) Across from Samitivej Hospital, its name means ‘delicious corner’, and we have to agree. With soft lighting, tiered seating and views of the pier and squid rigs, this large restaurant is one of the best places to eat in Si Racha. Turn left at the hospital and look for the tank with the 2m fish out front. There’s no roman script sign.
Pop (Th Jermjompol; dishes 60-220B; 5-11pm) More like ‘Rock’, this waterfront beer-hall-meets-music-club boasts a menu ranging from salty snacks to full meals.
Other recommendations:
Seafood stalls (Ko Loi jetty; dishes 40-160B; lunch & dinner) Perched on the Ko Loi jetty, these humble spots specialise in fresh seafood. There is no English menu but it’s all good.
Getting There & Around
Frequent buses travelling to Si Racha depart from both Bangkok’s Eastern (Ekamai) and Northern (Mo Chit) Stations from 5am to 9pm (ordinary/air-con 73/94B, 1¾ hours). Ordinary direct buses stop on the waterfront, but through buses and air-con buses stop on Th Sukhumvit (Hwy 3), near the Laemthong Apartments, and from there túk-túks (motorised three-wheeled pedicab) go to the pier (40B). There are also buses to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, 10 times a day from 6am to 6.40pm (85B).
There is one train from Bangkok bound for Pattaya per day. It leaves Hualamphong at 6.55am and returns from Si Racha at 2.50pm (3rd class 25B to 35B, three hours).
White srng·ta·ou (small pick-up trucks) to Naklua (north Pattaya) depart from the clock tower throughout the day (25B, 30 minutes). In Naklua catch another srng·ta·ou (10B to 20B) to central Pattaya. Local buses (40B, 30 minutes) run to Pattaya from near the Laemthong Apartments on Th Sukhumvit.
Boat services to Ko Si Chang leave from the end of Ko Loi jetty (Click here), and you can easily get around town via motorcycle taxi or túk-túk for about 30B to 40B.
KO SI CHANG
pop 4500
With a fishing-village atmosphere, gentle hills studded with Chinese and Thai temples, and beachfront reminders of a stately royal palace, Ko Si Chang is practically the anti-Thai island. No sweeping sandy beaches, no coconut groves – and no hoards of tourists.
Enrich your mind through meditation in the limestone caves of the Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana Monastery and exercise your body by paddling a kayak to nearby Bat Island, where there’s good snorkelling.
On weekdays you’ll have this gentle footfall on the Thai tourist trail all to yourself, but things liven up at the weekend when Bangkok holidaymakers arrive.
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Orientation & Information
The island’s one small settlement faces the mainland and is the terminus for the ferry. A bumpy road network links the village with all the other sights.
Kasikornbank (99/12 Th Atsadang) Has an ATM and exchange facilities.
Post office (Th Atsadang) Near the pier.
www.koh-sichang.com An excellent source of local information.
Sights & Activities
The Buddhist Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana Monastery (08 5388 0059, 0 3821 6104; dawn to dusk) is built around several meditation caves running into the island’s central limestone ridge, and offers fine views from its hilltop chedi (stupa). Monks and mâa chee (nuns) from across Thailand come to take advantage of the caves’ peaceful environment, and foreigners wishing to sample monastic life are also welcomed. Studying at the monastery is free of charge (phone ahead to make sure there’s room and bring your passport), but you’ll be expected to follow