Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [181]
The western side of the island has some OK swimming spots. Hat Tham Phang (Fallen Cave Beach) in the southwest has simple facilities with deckchair and umbrella rental. A beach area along the coast by Hat Tha Wang Palace (below) is popular with locals, and the island’s best swimming is at Hat Sai Kaew to the south.
At the western end of the island (2km from the pier), you can visit Hat Tha Wang Palace (Th Chakra Pong; admission free;9am-5pm). The carefully managed lawns are a prime picnic spot for visitors from Bangkok, who share the gardens with foraging white squirrels. The palace was once used by Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) over the summer months, but was abandoned when the French briefly occupied the island in 1893. The main throne hall – a magnificent golden teak structure known as Vimanmek Teak Mansion – was moved to Bangkok in 1910 (Click here). The Fine Arts Department has since restored the remaining palace buildings.
Overlooking Hat Tha Wang is a large white stupa that holds Wat Atsadang Nimit (daylight), a small, consecrated chamber where Rama V used to meditate. The unique Buddha image inside was fashioned more than 50 years ago by a local monk. Nearby is a stone outcrop wrapped in holy cloth, called Bell Rock because it rings like a bell when struck.
Near Wat Atsadang Nimit a large limestone cave, Tham Saowapha (admission free; daylight), plunges deep into the island. Have a peek inside if you’ve got a torch.
Just before you reach the palace is the Cholatassathan Museum (admission by donation; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) run by the Aquatic Resources Research Institute. The displays are small but there are a few interesting ones on the marine life in the area.
The most imposing sight on the island is the ornate San Jao Phaw Khao Yai Chinese Temple (daylight). During Chinese New Year in February, the island is overrun with Chinese visitors from the mainland. This is one of Thailand’s most interesting Chinese temples, with shrine caves, multiple levels and a good view of the ocean. It’s east of the town, high on a hill overlooking the sea.
Several locals run snorkelling trips to Koh Khang Khao (Bat Island) off Ko Si Chang’s southern tip. A boat for 10 people will cost around 2500B. Ask at Pan & David Restaurant (Click here) or the Tiewpai-Park Resort (Click here).
Sea kayaks are available for rent (150B per hour) on Hat Tham Phang. A nice paddle is down the coast to Koh Khang Khao, which is also a good spot for snorkelling. Recharge at the Si Chang Healing House (0 3821 6467; 167 Mu 3 Th Makham Thaew; 8am-6pm Thu-Tue), which offers massage and beauty treatments (400B to 800B) in a garden labyrinth opposite Pan & David Restaurant.
Sleeping
Rim Talay (0 3821 6237; 38/3 Mu 2 Th Devavongse; r 500-800B, houseboats 1000-1500B; ) Behind the Pan & David Restaurant, this waterside spot has simple but clean air-con rooms, and a selection of colourful Thai fishing boats that have been transformed into mini-apartments sleeping up to five people.
Sripitsanu (0 3821 6034; 38/3 Moo 2 Th Devavongse; r 550-1000B; ) The simple rooms are just that, but they all come with dazzling views of the water and you can hear the sea sloshing onto the rocks below you. A couple of air-con rooms are built into the hillside and plastered with shells – both inside and out.
Sichang View Resort (0 3821 6210; r 600-1400B; ) You’ll need transport to make this your island base, but the rooms are spacious and the landscaping is smooth, with lots of stone. It’s a relaxing getaway, and sunset is special. The hotel’s restaurant features a clifftop setting and excellent seafood from 180B to 300B. To get here, follow the road up the hill past the Chinese temple; after 1.5km the resort is on your right.
Sichang Palace (0