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EAST COAST

The two most developed beaches are Hat Sai Kaew and Ao Wong Deuan. Most other beaches are still comparatively quiet, but expansion is ongoing. Accommodation is listed from north to south.

Hat Sai Kaew

Known as ‘Diamond Sand’, this is the island’s biggest and busiest beach. The sand here is white and relatively clean, though the seafront is lined with hotels, bars and restaurants. It’s a favourite for Thais from Bangkok, and at the weekends expect a cacophony of jet skis and karaoke.

Saikaew Villa (0 3864 4144; r 500-1550B; ) Big rooms or small rooms, fan or air-con, Saikaew Villa conjures up a wide range of accommodation options amid a manicured space that (almost) goes too far with the holiday-camp atmosphere. Don’t expect much privacy, but do expect food, drinks and activities all on tap.

Sinsamut (0 3864 4207; www.sinsamut-kohsamed.com; r 800-1300B; ) Bright, light and colourful (but slightly shabby) rooms come with brick walls and the bathrooms have gravel floors with stepping stones. Fan rooms have cold-water showers, while air-con rooms come with TVs, hot water and refrigerators.

Ao Hin Khok

At the southern end of Hat Sai Kaew, statues of the prince and the mermaid from Sunthorn Phu’s epic (Click here) gaze lovingly into each other’s eyes. Ao Hin Khok begins here: it’s a pretty stretch of sand, lined with trees and boulders. This is the island’s traditional backpacker hub, and while the ambience is slowly moving towards the upmarket, there’s still loads of energy from independent travellers to make it a fun spot – especially after dark.

Naga Bungalows (0 3864 4035; r 350-600B; ) At Naga, Ko Samet’s backpacker spirit lives on. Simple fan bungalows are set into a forested hillside, and movies are shown every night in the outstanding restaurant. Expat Sue runs the post office, library and charity (ask how you can be involved), and is an excellent source of information about the island.

Tok’s (0 3864 4072; r 300-1200B; ) Same, same, but different (there are some air-con rooms at Tok’s). You’ll need a torch after dark to negotiate the steep hillside to the simple bungalows – especially if you’ve been taking part in Tok’s regular drinking games. Some snazzy new bungalows were being built when we visited.

Jep’s Bungalows (0 3864 4112; www.jepbungalow.com; r 600-2600B; ) Spearheading the evolution of Ao Hin Khok, the long established Jep’s offers rooms ranging from dingy fan bungalows to air-con rooms with satellite TV. Despite the changes, a backpacker spirit lingers with nightly movies and barbecues in the seafront restaurant.

Ao Phai

Around the next headland Ao Phai is another shallow bay with a wide beach, but it can get crowded during the day. After dark, there’s fun aplenty.

Silver Sand (08 6530 2147; www.silversandresort.com; s 300-800B, d 1200-2000B; ) The manicured gardens are a bit much, though thankfully the bungalows are equally attended to. The after-hours action in the Silver Sands bar can be a tad more disorderly.

Samed Villa (0 3864 4094; www.samedvilla.com; r 1800-4000B; ) A Swiss-run place, and it shows. Everything is spick and span, and the architects allocated a substantial budget to make the inside of some of the rooms as flash as the outside.

Ao Phutsa

Also known as Ao Tub Tim, this small and secluded beach is popular with return travellers and Bangkok expats.

Tubtim Resort (0 3864 4025; www.tubtimresort.com; r 600-1500B; ) A range of bungalows, from fan-cooled to fab, fill a garden that’s edging slowly towards jungle status. The cheapest huts have some gaps in the floorboards – bring a mosquito coil.

Pudsa Bungalow (0 3864 4030; r 600-1500B; ) The nicer bungalows near the beach are trimmed with driftwood, but unfortunately are right beside the main footpath from Ao Phai to Ao Phutsa. You might have to put up with overhearing inane alcohol-fuelled conversations late at night. An OK backup if Tubtim is full.

Ao Nuan

This tiny beach is the most secluded place