Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [195]
Ao Nuan (r 700-1500B) The best place for chillaxin’ on Ko Samet. Here, simple wooden bungalows are hidden among vegetation. A funky gazebo/bar/restaurant has books and good beats, and there’s a community atmosphere. No phone means no reservations, so just walk on over. Bring along your mozzie repellent.
Ao Cho
A five-minute walk from Ao Nuan, Ao Cho has a decent strip of sand though it’s dominated by a large resort.
Lungwang Wonderland Resort (0 3864 4162; www.samedlungwang.com, in Thai; r 500-3000B; ) The grounds could use some TLC and the air-con rooms are overpriced, but the simple bungalows are good – they’re decked out in cheerful colours and bright, mismatched tiles. Kayak rentals are 200B per hour.
Ao Wong Deuan
This crescent-shaped bay has a good nightlife and a chilled after-dark vibe, but your daytime soundtrack may be jet skis and speedboats. Ferries (70B each way) run to and from Ban Phe, with increased services at the weekend.
PJ House (0 3864 4182; r 500B; ) Next to Baywatch Bar, this small place is pretty basic but 500B scores you an air-con room. There’s a pool table downstairs dominated by the local 10-year-old sharks.
Blue Sky (08 1509 0547; r 600-800B; ) One of the last budget spots on Ao Wong Deuan, Blue Sky has simple bungalows set on a rocky headland. The restaurant does tasty things with seafood.
Vongduern Villa (0 3864 4260; www.vongduernvilla.com; r 1200-3000B; ) Sprawling along the bay’s southern edge, Vongduern’s bungalows are either near the beach or higher on the cliff top for better views. The Beach Front Bar is a sociable spot for sundowner cocktails, but romantic couples may prefer the subdued ambience of the Rock Front Restaurant.
Ao Thian
Better known by its English name, Candlelight Beach, Ao Thian has stretches of sand with rocky outcrops. To get here, catch a ferry to Ao Wong Deuan and walk south over the headland. It’s also a quick walk from here to the west side of the island – look for the marked trail near Tonhard Bungalow.
Candlelight Beach (08 1762 9387; r 700-1200B; ) On the beach, these fan and air-con bungalows have a natural, woody ambience.
Lung Dam Apache (08 1659 8056; r 800-1200B; ) These quirky bungalows look like they’ve been thrown together from marine debris. Some have enclosed verandas and wraparound windows.
Tonhard Bungalow (08 1435 8900; r 700-1500B; ) On a wooded and sandy part of the beach, this place is quiet, friendly and somewhat private. Most bungalows differ from each other. At the southern end of Candlelight.
Viking Holiday Resort (0 3864 4353; r from 2000B; ) Rooms are large and luxurious, and there’s only nine of them so book ahead.
Ao Wai
The southern reaches of the island are still practically untouched, with only a couple of hotels spread over as many kilometres of coastline. Lovely Ao Wai is about 1km from Ao Thian, but can be reached from Ban Phe by chartered speedboat (1500B for two people).
Samet Ville Resort (0 3865 1682; www.sametvilleresort.com; r incl breakfast 2000-5300B; ) Under a forest canopy, it’s a case of ‘spot the sky’ at the very secluded Samet Ville. It’s a romantic spot, but if you do have a fight with your loved one, take advantage of the water sports on offer and cool off in separate kayaks for the day. At dusk, patch things up over cocktails and subdued beats in the beachfront bar. There is a huge range of different fan and air-con rooms for all budgets.
WEST & NORTH COASTS
Ao Prao
West-facing Ao Prao gets fabulous sunsets and offers a smattering of chic hotels for the posh set. Speedboat transfers from the mainland are included (of course).
Lima Coco Resort (0 2938 1811; www.limacoco.com; r 2600-7000B; ) Whitewashed rooms could go either way: Mediterranean or bland. No matter what, they’re bright and a little different from the norm.
Ao Prao Resort (0 2437 7849; www.samedresorts.com; r from 6300B; ) This resort opened in the 1990s as the island’s first luxury accommodation. It’s holding its age well, with private bungalows cascading down a hill