Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [196]
Ao Noi Na
Northwest of Na Dan, the beach at Ao Noi Na is only average, but there is a refreshing solitude with a couple of good places to stay.
Baan Puu Paan (0 3864 4095; r 700-1200B; ) This English-run spot has a couple of stand-alone huts above the ocean at the end of a pier. Bring a fat book – it’s a good place to get away.
Eating & Drinking
Most places to stay have restaurants that moonlight as bars at sunset. The food won’t blow you away, but it’s OK value, with Thai and Western favourites for around 80B to 130B. For the greatest choice check out Hat Sai Kaew, Ao Hin Khok, Ao Phai and Ao Wong Deuan, but hotels on the remote stretches make sure you won’t go to bed hungry. Look for nightly beach barbecues, particularly along Ao Hin Khok and Ao Phai.
Drinking-wise, many places offer nightly ‘toss a coin’ promotions. Basically heads or tails decides if you end up paying for your drink or not. Ao Wong Deuan is slightly more upmarket, but not much.
For seriously cheap eats, check out the food stalls that set up in the late afternoon on the road between Na Dan and Hat Sai Kaew.
Rabeang Bar (Na Dan; dishes 30-100B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Right by the ferry terminal, this over-the-water spot has good waiting-for-the-next-boat-to-the-mainland kind of food.
Miss You Cafe (coffee 40-90B; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) Located beside the National Parks main office, this spot has 13 different kinds of coffee, and almost as many variations on cake and ice cream. Have a latte as you hitch your laptop to the wi-fi network.
Jep’s Restaurant (0 3864 4112; Ao Hin Khok; dishes 40-150B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) With Thai, Indian, Mexican, Japanese and European food, you should find something you like at this sand-between-the-toes spot that also does regular beach barbecues.
Naga Bar (0 3864 4035; Ao Hin Khok; dishes 60-150B) Has a huge menu with Thai set meals (so you can taste everything), meat pies, real coffee and fresh-baked goods. There’s a bar across the road next to the moo·ay tai ring (where you can duke out who pays for the next round).
Silver Sand Bar (0 6530 2417; Ao Phai; dishes 60-180B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) As well as a regular menu, Silver Sand offers fresh crêpes (sweet and savoury), a juice bar and nightly movies. Once the movies end, the action progresses (regresses?) to cocktail buckets and fire shows on the beach. There is even a burger bar to appease the midnight munchies.
Baywatch Bar (08 1826 7834; Ao Wong Deuan; kebabs 190-290B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) There’s chill-out platforms and Asian umbrellas, and beanbag chairs on the sand after dark. The cocktails are strong and it’s a fun evening crowd.
Tok’s Little Bar (0 3864 4072; Ao Hin Khok) With sticks-and-straw decor, a few locals who fancy themselves as ladykillers, and nightly drinking games, you won’t mistake this place for a sophisticated cocktail bar. Food is also available (60B to 150B).
Getting There & Away
Ferries (one way/return 50/100B, 40 minutes) depart hourly between 7am and 5pm from Ban Phe’s Saphan Nuan Tip pier – opposite the 7-Eleven, where the buses and srng·ta·ou stop. Tickets can be bought from a small tourist information centre (0 3889 6155; 7am-5pm) on the pier itself. Ferries return to Ban Phe from the pier in Na Dan hourly from 7am to 5pm – buy your ticket at the pier. Despite what you may be told, you don’t need to buy a round-trip ticket.
From Ban Phe, two scheduled ferries (9am and noon) also make the run to Ao Wong Deuan (one way/return 70/110B, one hour). They make the trip in reverse at 8.30am and noon. In the high season boats run to other bays if enough people show an interest. Alternatively, you can charter a speedboat to any of the island’s beaches. They are quite expensive (1200B to Na Dan or 1600B to Ao Wai), but they take up to 10 passengers for this price, so it’s worthwhile if you’re travelling in a group.
Ignore the touts that congregate around the ferry terminal as they charge inflated prices