Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [198]
King Taksin Park (24 hr) is the town’s main oasis and is filled with picnicking families. Judging by some of the expressions on show, that includes a few who have lost out on the gem market. It’s a pleasant spot for a quiet, thoughtful stroll.
Four kilometres north of town off Rte 3249 is Khao Phloi Waen (Ring-Sapphire Mountain; admission free; daylight hr), which is only 150m high but features a Sri Lankan–style chedi on top, built during the reign of Rama IV. Tunnels dug into the side of the hill were once gem-mining shafts.
Wat Khao Sukim doubles as a local meditation centre and is 16km north of Chanthaburi, off Rte 3322. The museum (donation appreciated) on the wát (temple) grounds contains valuable items donated to the temple, including jade carvings, ceramics and antique furniture, as well as resin figures of some of Thailand’s most revered monks.
Festivals
During early December every year there is a gem festival, when Chanthaburi gets very crowded. Highlights of the festival include jewellery shows and a gem-design competition. In the first week of June each year, Chanthaburi’s annual fruit festival is a good opportunity to sample the region’s superb produce, especially rambutans, mangosteens and the ever-pungent durian.
Sleeping
Accommodation can get very busy. Try and book ahead, especially from Friday to Sunday when the gem traders are in town.
River Guest House (0 3932 8211; 3/5-8 Th Si Chan; r incl breakfast 150-350B; ) Painted in shades of soft taupe and beige, Chanthaburi’s real gems are the clean rooms and relaxed sitting area by the river at this friendly place. There’s a fair bit of highway noise, but air-con should drown it out. The cheapest rooms share baths.
Muang Chan Hotel (0 3932 1073; fax 0 3932 7244; 257-259 Th Si Chan; r 250-600B; ) A bit dingy – the toothpaste-green walls could use a touch-up – but perfectly friendly. An OK back-up if River Guest House is full.
Kasemsarn Hotel (0 3931 1100; kasemsarnhotel@yahoo.com; Th Benchamarachutit 98/1; r 1300-1500B; ) Leaves cascade down from the outdoor hallways, and the staff are very attentive. The rooms are large, and with discounts of up to 45% during the week it can be a good-value option.
Eating
To try the famous Chanthaburi go·ay e·o sên jan (noodles), head for the Chinese-Vietnamese part of town along Mae Nam Chanthaburi where you’ll see variations on the basic rice-noodle theme, including delicious crab with fried noodles. Fruit harvested locally is famous throughout Thailand. Get to the market early for the best selection.
Muslim Food (08 1353 5174; 19/5 Th Thetsaban 4; dishes 25-50B; 9.30am-9pm) This tiny place has excellent paratha, biriani, curries and chai tea.
Sony Yadaw (Th Si Chan; dishes 30-100B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Many Indian and Sri Lankan gem dealers come to Chanthaburi to trade, and this tiny hole-in-the-wall vegetarian restaurant is their home away from home. Luckily the friendly Indian owner will also sell you a Heineken, so you don’t have to be too healthy and righteous.
Chanthorn Phochana (0 3931 2339; 102/5-8 Th Benchamarachutit; dishes 30-120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) A dazzling array of Thai and Chinese meals includes such specialities as stir-fried papaya and local mangosteen wine. Try the Vietnamese spring rolls, and buy a bag of local durian chips (tastier than you think) for your next bus ride.
Getting There & Away
Buses operate between Chanthaburi and Bangkok’s Eastern (Ekamai) bus station (200B, 4½ hours) every half hour from 4.30am to 11:30pm. From Bangkok’s Northern (Mo Chit) bus terminal, buses begin running at 6am and run frequently until 8.45pm. Buses also travel to Rayong (80B,