Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [199]
It’s also possible to catch a through-bus north to Sa Kaew and then east to Aranya Prathet (if you do need to change buses in Sa Kaew, the ones heading east are frequent) on the Thailand–Cambodia border (150B, 4½ hours). From this crossing you can take a share taxi from Poipet on the Cambodian side of the border to Siem Reap (near Angkor Wat).
Motorbike taxis around town cost 20B to 30B. Srng·ta·ou departing for various destinations, such as the national parks (Click here), stop in the market.
TRAT PROVINCE
In Trat Province, gem trading is a favoured method of putting rice on the table – unsurprisingly, à·làht ploy (gem markets) abound. A by-product of this gem mining has been the destruction of vast tracts of land, as the topsoil is stripped away, leaving hectares of red-orange mud.
But there’s plenty more to fire your imagination. Before you head to the beaches of rugged Ko Chang or its more delicate and subdued island neighbours, linger in the traditional riverside ambience of Trat. If you’re in no hurry to travel east to Cambodia, then relax on the expansive beaches that run lazily down the coast to the border. Hat Sai Si Ngoen, Hat Sai Kaew, Hat Thap Thim and Hat Ban Cheun are all worth a look.
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TRAT
pop 20,100
For too many travellers, all they see of Trat is the shiny new bus station before they are shunted onto a srng·ta·ou to the Ko Chang ferry, or a minibus east to the Cambodian border at Hat Lek.
But if you linger for at least a night, the town’s relaxed appeal takes hold. Meandering pedestrian alleys are lined with century-old teak houses filled with traveller-friendly guesthouses and restaurants, and you’ll spend longer than you realise at the bustling markets.
If you’re heading to Ko Chang, ignore the touts at the bus station advising you to hurry to catch the ‘last ferry’ to the island, otherwise you can expect the cost of your srng·ta·ou to the pier to be inflated. With Trat’s guesthouses such good value, you’re better off staying at least one night (don’t miss the night market) and continuing your journey in the morning.
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Orientation & Information
Trat’s new bus station is around 1.5km north of the centre of town. A srng·ta·ou or motorbike taxi to the guesthouse area will cost around 30B to 40B.
Th Sukhumvit runs through town, though it’s often referred to as Th Ratanuson.
Bangkok Trat Hospital (0 3953 2735; Th Sukhumvit; 24hr) Best health care in the region. It’s 400m north of the town centre.
Koh Chang TT Travel (0 3953 1420; 109 Th Sukhumvit; 8am-5pm)
Krung Thai Bank (Th Sukhumvit) Has an ATM and currency-exchange facilities.
Police station (1155; cnr Th Santisuk & Th Wiwatthana) Located a short walk from Trat’s centre.
Post office (Th Tha Reua Jang) East of Trat’s commercial centre.
Sawadee@Cafe Net (0 3952 0075; Th Lak Meuang; per min 1B; 10am-10pm) Internet and Skype are both available.
Telephone office (Th Tha Reua Jang) Located near the post office.
Tratosphere Books (23 Soi Rimklong; 8am-10pm) Has second-hand titles in English and pretty much every other language. Owner Serge is a good source of information about Ko Kut, Ko Wai and Ko Mak.
Sights
Wat Plai Khlong (Wat Bupharam; 9am-5pm) offers a quiet (during the week) retreat from the bustle of central Trat. Several of the wooden buildings date to the late-Ayuthaya period, including the wí·hhn (large hall), bell tower and gù·ì (monks’ quarters). The wí·hhn contains sacred relics and Buddha images dating from the Ayuthaya period and earlier. It is 2km west of the centre.
Trat is overpopulated with markets. The indoor market beneath the municipal shopping centre off Th Sukhumvit, the old day market off Th Tat Mai, and another nearby day market are all worth a look. The latter becomes an excellent night market in the evening.
The city is also famous for its nám·man lu·ang (yellow oil), a herb-infused liquid touted as a remedy for