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everything from arthritis to stomach upsets. It’s produced by a resident, Mae Ang-Ki (Somthawin Pasananon), using a secret pharmaceutical recipe that has been handed down through her Chinese-Thai family for generations. It’s said if you leave Trat without a couple of bottles of nám·man lu·ang, then you really haven’t been to Trat. Put a couple of drops on your palms, rub them together and take a good whiff. It’s also great for aches and pains, insect bites and pimples, and is available at pharmacies across town as well as Tratosphere Books (see above).

A walkway follows the river at the southern edge of the old town. It provides a good perspective of life along the river, but unfortunately has been constructed in ugly concrete.

About 5km outside town towards Tha Dan Kao is a mangrove forest that has a nice raised walkway meandering through it. Arrive at sunset for a firefly show.

In the opposite direction, behind Wat Plai Khlong, is a small lake. While it’s not exactly stunning, it has pretty sunsets, a couple of restaurants, and you can loop around the lake on a pleasant bike ride. Enquire at your guesthouse or Cool Corner (Click here) about bike rentals.

Sleeping

Trat has many cheap hotels housed in traditional wooden buildings on and around Th Thana Charoen. You’ll find it hard to spend more even if you want to. Guesthouse owners in Trat are becoming increasingly competitive and you may be met by a scrum at the bus station. There have been reports of travellers being offered air-con rooms, but then having to accept cheaper, more budget accommodation once they were delivered to the guesthouse. Ask the touts to ring their guesthouse for you, and try and speak to reception to get an assurance that the room type being offered is actually available.

Garden Guest House (0 3952 1018; 87/1 Th Sukhumvit; r 120B) Don’t be put off by the young Thai boxers lifting weights out front; the rooms are in back, quiet and testosterone-free. Of the eight rooms, only one has a private bath (200B). It’s across Th Sukhumvit from the old town.

Ban Jaidee Guest House (0 3952 0678; 6 Th Chaimongkol; r 150-200B) This relaxed Thai-style home has simple rooms with shared bathrooms, and the whole place is finished with paintings and wooden objects made by one of the artistically inclined owners. It’s very popular and booking ahead is essential.

Residang Guest House (0 3953 0103; www.trat-guesthouse.com; 87/1-2 Th Thana Charoen; r 260-500B; ) Big beds with thick mattresses and good bathrooms with hot showers – what more do you need? Fan rooms come with breezes and balconies, some of which overlook the river.

Other recommendations:

Sawadee (0 3951 2392; sawadee_trat@yahoo.com; 90 Th Lak Meuang; r 100-300B) Simple, but fastidiously clean, fan rooms with shared bathroom.

Pop Guest House (0 3951 1152; popson1958@hotmail.com; 1/1 Th Thana Charoen; r 100-500B; ) Pop has rooms spread throughout the neighbourhood. When we visited, a new place was almost complete along the river a few km from town. Though the owners are friendly, at times they might be too friendly: readers have complained about getting the hard sell from them and from local touts at the bus station.

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NATIONAL PARKS NEAR CHANTHABURI

Two small national parks are easily reached from Chanthaburi, and make good day trips. Both are malarial, so take the usual precautions.

Khao Khitchakut National Park (0 3945 2074; reserve@dnp.go.th; admission 400B; 8.30am-4.30pm) is 28km northeast of town off Rte 3249. Though it’s one of Thailand’s smallest national parks (59 sq km), it’s bordered by the Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary (itself bordered by another wildlife sanctuary), and is said to harbour herds of wild elephants.

The watery cascade of Nam Tok Krathing is Khao Khitchakut’s main attraction. Thirteen tiers tumble from a high hill, visible from the road. A trail follows the numbered falls, climbs up past turquoise plunge pools (hint: numbers 1, 7 and 8 are best for swimming), and gets very steep after number 9.

Park accommodation (0 2562 0760; reserve@dnp.go.th)