Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [201]
To get to Khao Khitchakut, take a srng·ta·ou from next to the post office, near the northern side of the market in Chanthaburi (35B, 45 minutes). The srng·ta·ou stops 1km from the park headquarters on Rte 3249, from which point you’ll have to walk. Returning transport is a bit thin – expect to wait up to an hour.
Nam Tok Phlio National Park (0 3943 4528; reserve@dnp.go.th; admission 400B; 8.30am-4.30pm), off Hwy 3, is 14km to the southeast of Chanthaburi and is much more popular, as evidenced by the food stalls lining the road to the entrance. A pleasant, 1km nature trail loops around the waterfalls, which writhe with soro brook carp. Also on display are the mossy Phra Nang Ruar Lom stupa (c 1876) and Along Khon chedi (c 1881).
Accommodation is available in a campsite (site 10B, plus 50B per person) or in a six-person bungalow (1800B per room). Book online or phone park reservations (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th).
To get to the park, catch a srng·ta·ou from the northern side of the market in Chanthaburi to the park entrance (30B, 30 minutes). You’ll get dropped off about 1km from the entrance.
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EATING & DRINKING
With all the markets in Trat, you’re usually only going to be mere metres from something tasty. The indoor market beneath the shopping centre has a food section, with cheap noodle and rice dishes from morning to evening. Grab a cheap breakfast at the ancient coffee stand in the old day market on Th Tat Mai.
The night market (confidently advertised as ‘Food Safety Street’), is the best place for cheap eats. During the day, an unnamed vegetarian restaurant (dishes 20B; 6am-11am) east of the night market offers tasty vegetarian food at knockdown prices from the crack of dawn. It closes as soon as the food is gone – usually well before midday.
Cool Corner (08 4159 2030; 49-51 Th Thana Charoen; dishes 50-150B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Though it’s no longer on the corner since the original building burned down in 2008, the hip artist/owner (see opposite) still serves up great vibes, phat beats and darn good mango lassies.
Kluarimklong Cafe (0 3952 4919; Soi Rimklong; dishes 70-90B; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) The winning combination here is delicious Thai food served in modern surroundings. The dishes are surprisingly affordable given the slick decor.
Other recommendation:
Woodland Garden Cafe (53 Th Thana Charoen; 6pm-midnight) Your best bet for cocktails and cold beers. When we visited the owner had just remodelled and was about ready to roll out a new French menu.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Bangkok Airways (Trat Airport 0 3952 5767, in Bangkok 0 2265 5555; www.bangkokair.com) flies three times a day to and from Trat and Bangkok (one way/return 2575/5150B). The airport is 40km from town; minibuses and taxis meet flights. In the high season booking ahead is recommended.
BUS
Cherdchai Tour (0 3951 1062; Th Sukhumvit; 6am-11.30pm) runs hourly services (less frequent during off-peak season) from Trat’s bus station to Bangkok’s Eastern (Ekamai) and Northern (Mo Chit) stations, both 5½ hours, with fares 223B to 260B. Buses from Bangkok to Trat depart with the same frequency. Note that most Mo Chit buses also stop at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport, so if you’re leaving Thailand you don’t need to double back to Bangkok. At the bus station, Suparat Tour (0 3951 1481) also offers services to Ekamai and Mo Chit; fares are 257B to 266B. Cherdchai and Suparat’s air-con Bangkok bus services also stop in Chanthaburi (55B to 70B, 1¼ hours). Ordinary government buses make the run to and from Bangkok’s Eastern bus terminal for 200B, departing on an hourly basis.
Direct minibuses from Trat to Hat Lek (120B, one hour) leave every 45 minutes from the bus station. Srng·ta·ou (50B) also trundle from the bus station to Hat Lek, but you will have to wait for enough people to show up.
Srng·ta·ou for Laem Ngop and Centrepoint Pier (40B to 60B) leave Trat from a stand on Th