Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [213]
Two waterfalls on the island make good short hiking destinations. The larger and more popular Nam Tok Khlong Chao is wide and pretty with a massive plunge pool. Expect to share it with dozens of other visitors, especially on weekends. It’s a quick jungle walk to the base, or you can kayak up Khlong Chao. Further north is Nam Tok Khlong Yai Ki, which is smaller but also has a large pool to cool off in.
Koh Kood Ngamkho Resort (below) rents mountain bikes (per day 150B), and bicycling is a pleasant, if not rather dusty, way to tour the hilly island.
SLEEPING
Ko Kut lacks decent transport infrastructure, and most resorts cater to package tourists. Therefore, it’s difficult to arrive and shop around for rooms, though the following all take walk-in bookings. You’d be wise to phone ahead though, especially since most speedboat operators will deliver you to your guesthouse’s pier.
Koh Kood Ngamkho Resort (08 1825 7076; www.kohkood-ngamkho.com; Ao Ngam Kho; hut/bungalow 300/650B) Shady huts perch on a forested hillside on pretty Ao Ngam Kho (north of Bang Bao). ‘Uncle Joe’ runs a great setup that’s the best budget option around – though the quarters are rustic, they’re made fun with colourful tiles and mosaics. Super-simple huts hold only a mattress and mosquito net; they’re snug and a step above camping.
Mangrove Bungalows (08 5279 0278; www.kohkoodmangrove.com; Ban Khlong Chao; r 600-1200B; ) Away from the beach but lounging pleasantly along mangrove-smothered Khlong Chao, this place has brand-new bungalows sporting polished wood floors and hot-water showers. A restaurant hangs out above the canal, and kayaks are on offer for heading upriver.
Dusita (08 1523 7369; Ao Ngam Kho; r 700-1200B; ) With a sandy beach, leafy surroundings, and pavilions and restaurants open to the sea breeze, the bungalows (both fan and air-con) at Dusita are good value. Weekends are especially busy in the high season.
Siam Beach (08 1945 5789; Ao Bang Bao; r 800-1500B; ) Sub-simple fan huts with mattresses on the floor and more expensive air-con bungalows sit on the best part of Ao Bang Bao’s beach. A few have nice sea views, but the huts are overpriced.
Koh Kood Resort & Spa (08 1829 7751; www.kohkoodholiday.com; Ao Bang Bao; r incl breakfast 1000-1800B; ) If you don’t choose the air-con option, these roomy, jungle-clad bungalows with whitewashed outdoor showers are a good deal. Though there’s no ‘spa’ to speak of, there are plenty of opportunities for relaxing – each bungalow has a massive veranda, while inside floor-to-ceiling windows let in sea breezes through wispy curtains. Don’t confuse it with ‘Ko Kut Resort & Spa,’ on a different part of the island.
Beach Natural Resort (08 6999 9420, Bangkok 0 2222 9969; www.thebeachkohkood.com; Ao Bang Bao; r incl breakfast 1200-2600B; ) Balinese-style bungalows sit among loads of vegetation on a quiet cove that’s great for kayaking. The customer service is beyond Thai-friendly, and the restaurant is the best on the beach. Chill-out pavilions beckon above the sand. Thais pack this place for karaoke-fuelled fun at the weekend, so try and come on a weekday for a quieter experience.
Shantaa (08 1817 9648; www.shantaakohkood.com; Hat Khlong Yai Ki; r incl breakfast 5000B; ) Stylish bungalows top a sunny cliff at what is probably the classiest spot on the island. The whole place is luxurious but the best feature is the bathrooms. Stepping stones lead into a private garden, complete with two leafy outdoor showers or a soaking tub, and herbal toiletries complete the experience. Other amenities include stereos, king-sized beds, a private beach, and a welcome lack of TVs.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
As the islands become more popular, transport options have expanded. Following is a summary of what’s available; the range and frequency of boats increases during the high season. During the low season, transport to the islands can be nonexistent.
From Ko Chang, Bang Bao Boats (08 7054 4300) runs a ‘fast ferry’ twice a day in the high season between Bang Bao and the other islands. It departs Ko Kut at 9am and arrives