Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [214]
Siriwite Speedboat (08 6126 7860) departs from Tha Laem Sok, 22km (approximately 45 minutes) southeast of Trat. It has a daily departure at 1pm for Ko Kut (600B, 1¼ hours). In the reverse direction, boats leave Ko Kut at 9.30am and 1pm. Ninmungkorn Express Boat (08 6126 7860; Laem Sok) runs a service from the same pier, departing from Ko Kut at 10am and from the mainland at noon (350B, 2¼ hours). Share taxis to and from Laem Sok are included in ticket prices.
Speedboat Dan Kao departs Tha Dan Kao, 5km east of Trat (not to be confused with Ko Chang’s Tha Dan Kao), at 9am daily during the high season (550B, 1¼ hours). It departs Ko Kut for the mainland at 1pm.
On-island transport is thin on the ground, and you’re better off renting a motorbike or mountain bike (see opposite). Motorbikes are widely available on Ko Kut, with prices ranging from 300B to 500B for 24 hours.
Ko Mak
Pretty little Ko Mak is only 16 sq km and doesn’t have the jungled peaks and valleys of Ko Chang or Ko Kut, but its small size and lack of drama just means it has a lot more chill. Palm-fringed beaches are bathed by gently lapping water – it’s almost a tropical-paradise cliché. Rainforest covers 30% of the island while coconut and rubber plantations take up another 60%, and few roads are sealed.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
There are no banks or ATMs on the island, so stock up on cash before visiting. The main pier is at Ao Nid, on the eastern side of the island, and a small village sits inland from there. A network of roads, most not sealed, links the beaches.
Ball’s Cafe (08 1925 6591; Ao Nid Pier; per min 1B; 9am-6pm) Has internet access and can help arrange accommodation and tours.
Ko Mak Health Centre (08 9403 5986; on cross-island road near Ao Nid Pier; 8.30am-4.30pm) Can handle basic first-aid emergencies and illnesses.
Police (0 3952 5741) Near the health centre.
ACTIVITIES
With an array of dirt roads curving across the island as well as mellow terrain, Ko Mak has good opportunities for mountain biking. Near the health centre, Chan Chao (08 9728 0703) rents sturdy bikes (50/150B per hour/day) and has routes mapped out. Many guesthouses also rent bikes.
Snorkelling and diving trips can be arranged through most guesthouses, though Kok Mak Divers (08 3297 7724), on the road behind Island Huts, has a good reputation and is actively involved in coral development projects. Snorkelling, lunch and transport costs 650B, while a dive trip is 2300B.
SLEEPING & EATING
Ko Mak has some charming non-resorts (especially along Ao Khao) that offer a glimpse of slow-paced, Thai-island life. We have listed high season prices – expect discounts of up to 50% in the low season at the places that remain open.
The whole island, including accommodation operators, shows up to meet the daily boat from the mainland. Don’t worry, they’ll find you.
Island Huts (08 7139 5537; Ao Khao; huts 300-350B) Colourful wood huts with lazy hammocks and a small slice of semi-private beach make this budget spot pleasant, if you don’t mind the fairly unforgiving mattresses.
Buri Huts (08 9752 5285; www.kohmakburihut.com; Baan Lang; r 500-1300B; ) On the eastern side of the island, Buri has African-style huts that perch cheerfully on a tiered bluff above the water. The cheapest huts are thatch-roofed, while the concrete ones are topped with perky blue cones. An earth-coloured pool is surrounded by lounge chairs, though signs directing you to the resort promise ‘no sand flies’ on the beach.
Monkey Island (08 9501 6030; www.monkeyislandkohmak.com; Ao Khao; r 600-3000B; ) All budgets are catered for at what is probably the best backpacker accommodation on the island. Earthen or wood thatched-roof bungalows come in three models: Baboon, Chimpanzee and Gorilla. The former have shared bath, whilst the latter have open-air en suite bathrooms