Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [215]
Baan Koh Maak (0 3952 4028; www.baan-koh-mak.com; Ao Khao; r 700-1400B; ) Competing for most stylish flashpacker digs on the island, Baan Koh Maak’s bungalows are bright and funky. The white picket fences give it a fairy-tale Thai suburbia feel, but the neon green and fuchsia paint add a rebellious bit of psychedelia. The mattresses are softer than the usual low- to mid-range variety. The property also operates Koh Mak Cottages, with simple fan bungalows (550B), next door.
Ko Mak Coco-Cape (08 1937 9024; www.kohmakcococape.com; r 1000-4500B; ) Owned by a couple of Bangkok architects (and it shows), this sprawling place is kind of Ko Med with its crisply whitewashed walls in the flashier bungalows and villas. The cheapest options are bamboo huts that totter over tide pools; these start at 1000B for a shared bath and fan. A compact swimming beach is just minutes away.
Makathanee Resort (08 7600 00374; www.makathanee.com; Ao Khao; r 2500-3000B; ) Floor-to-ceiling windows open to sea views in these plush bungalows, which have deliciously soft mattresses and lots of breathing room. Though it shouldn’t ruin the views any, the proximity of the new hotel that was being built directly behind the grounds when we visited was a bit of a buzz-kill.
Food Garden (Ao Khao; dishes 30-80B; 4pm-10pm) Across the road from Monkey Island, Food Garden is just that – a fenced in area filled with tables and surrounded by food stalls. A server will take your order so you don’t need to peruse each stall (unless, of course, you want to). We recommend the hy tôrt – fried mussels with a side of sweet chilli sauce (50B). It’s delish.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Several speedboat companies run frequent trips between Ko Mak and the mainland; the best way to book them is through your guesthouse. Panan Speedboat leaves from the Ko Mak Resort pier on the northwest side of the island at 8am and 1pm, and departs Tha Laem Ngop at 10am and 4pm (450B, one hour). Leelawadee Speedboat has departures outside Makathanee Resort at 8am, 10.30am and noon; and Laem Ngop at 10.30am, 2pm and 3pm (450B, 1¼ hours).
A slow ferry (via Ko Wai) leaves Ko Mak’s Ao Nid Pier at 8am for Tha Laem Ngop, and leaves the mainland to go back at 3pm (300B, three hours).
All boats passing from the mainland and Ko Chang to Ko Kut will stop at Ko Mak. Examples include Bang Bao Boat’s speedboat, which leaves Ko Chang’s southern town Bang Bao at noon (550B, one hour), and wooden boat, which leaves Ko Chang at 9am (400B, two hours); and Siriwite Speedboat, which departs Tha Laem Ngop at 1pm (450B, one hour). Click here for more information on speedboats. Expect to pay 200B to 400B for transport between Ko Kut and Ko Mak.
Once on the island, you can pedal your way around (Click here), or it’s small enough to explore by foot if you’re so inclined. Motorbikes go for 60B to 80B per hour or 300B to 450B per day.
Other Islands
A few other small islands offer seclusion, azure waters and overnight accommodation. Most speedboats make stops at these points upon request.
KO WAI
Ko Wai is teensy and somewhat primitive, but endowed with excellent coral reefs. There are now several places to lay your head, all along the northern side of the island. Expect to share the bulk of your afternoons with day-trippers but have the remainder of your time in peace.
Ao Yai Ma (08 1841 3011; r 200-350B) A cheap and simple place to call it a night. The pricier huts have private baths.
Ko Wai Paradise (r 300B) A popular place with simple wooden bungalows on the beach. You’ll likely have to share the coral out front with hoards of snorkelling day-trippers.
Good Feeling (08 8503 3410; r 300B) Your basic thatch huts with shared bath.
Grand Mer (r 400B) Six huts on a quiet smile of beach, with a small restaurant. It’s on the northeastern side of the island.
Ko Wai Pakarang (08 4113 8946; www.kohwaipakarang.com;