Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [241]
Chiang Mai University (Map; 0 5394 1000; www.cmu.ac.th; Th Huay Kaew) offers a one-year certificate program in Thai as a foreign language through the faculty of education (International Relations Section; 0 5394 4274; fax 0 5322 1283; kuku_cmu@hotmail.com; per semester from 42,000B). The program is offered as an exchange through CMU’s sister universities as well as for interested foreigners. The program covers all levels in Thai conversation, reading and writing, as well as Thai culture, and is to be completed in two successive semesters with approximately 10 hours of coursework per week.
Payap University (Map; http://ic.payap.ac.th; Kaew Nawarat Campus, Th Kaew Nawarat) is a private university founded by the Church of Christ of Thailand and offers an Academic Thai course through the foreign languages department (0 5324 1255, ext 7220) that covers all levels in 60/120-hour modules (7500/19,700B). Payap also offers a Thai and Southeast Asian Studies Certificate Program (0 5385 1478, ext 7227; http://thaistudies.payap.ac.th), for one to two semesters that includes coursework on Thai language, history and culture and contemporary issues in Southeast Asia.
Thai Boxing
Lanna Muay Thai Boxing Camp (Kiatbusaba; Map; 0 5389 2102; www.lannamuaythai.com; 64/1 Soi Chang Khian, Th Huay Kaew; fees per day/month 400/8000B) offers moo·ay tai (Thai boxing, also spelt muay thai) instruction to foreigners and Thais. Several Lanna students have won stadium bouts, including the famous transvestite boxer Parinya Kiatbusaba.
Traditional Massage
The following are government accredited programs that will provide students with the fundamentals to practise Thai massage professionally. Some schools are also recognised as continuing education options by international bodywork organisations.
Bangkok’s Wat Pho massage school established the Chiang Mai branch of Chetawan Thai Traditional Massage School ( Map; 0 5341 0360; www.watpomassage.com; 7/1-2 Soi Samud Lanna, Th Pracha Uthit; courses from 6500B), outside of town near Rajabhat University.
Khun Lek of Lek Chaiya ( Map; 0 5327 8325; www.nervetouch.com; 25-29 Th Ratchadamnoen; course from 5200B) learned jàp sên (literally ‘nerve touch’), a northern Thai massage technique akin to acupressure, from her mother and became a well-known practitioner before retiring and passing the business and the technique on to her son. Courses last from three to five days and cover about 50% of a traditional Thai massage course with the remainder dedicated to the nerve-touch technique and herbal therapies. To experience jàp sên, stop in for a massage either from an assistant (500B) or from Lek’s son Jack (950B).
A former instructor at the Old Medicine Hospital has developed his own curriculum at International Training Massage School ( Map; 0 5321 8632; 17/6-7 Th Morakot; www.itmthaimassage.com; 3500-5000B), using northern-style massage techniques. Each of the four training levels includes 30 hours of instruction, culminating in a fifth teacher training level. There are also shorter foot reflexology, massage and spa treatment courses.
The curriculum at Old Medicine Hospital (OMH; Map; 0 5327 5085, 0 5320 1663; www.thaimassageschool.ac.th; 78/1 Soi Siwaka Komarat, Th Wualai; courses 2500-5000B) is very traditional, with a northern-Thai slant, and was one of the first to develop massage training for foreigners. There are two 10-day massage courses a month, as well as shorter foot and oil massage courses. Classes tend to be large from December to February, but smaller the rest of the year.
Northeast of town, Thai Massage School of Chiang Mai (TMC; 0 5385 4330; www.tmcschool.com; 203/6 Th Chiang Mai-Mae Jo; courses 7000-7500B) has a solid, government-licensed massage curriculum. There are three foundation levels and an intensive teacher-training program. There’s also a one-day Thai yoga program.
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PAMPERING & PUMMELLING
While there are a few truly exceptional spas in Chiang Mai, the city excels in a more modest category: old-fashioned Thai massage. The massage parlour might be just