Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [242]
Many of the temples in the old city have a massage sh·lah (often spelt as sala) on the grounds, continuing an ancient tradition of the monasteries being a repository for traditional knowledge and healing. All of the massage schools ( Click here) also offer massage sessions to those who’d rather be prostrate than be proselytised.
Chiang Mai Women’s Prison Massage Centre ( Map; 08 1706 1041; 100 Th Ratwithi; 8.30am-4.30pm; 150-200B) offers fantastic full body and foot massages performed by inmates at the women’s prison as a part of their rehabilitation training program. Despite their incarceration, the ladies aren’t career criminals but eager to turn their lives around with the job skills they’ve developed behind bars; those working in the massage centre are due for release within six months. The money earned from these treatments goes directly to the prisoners for use after their release. Other rehabilitation initiatives include teaching sewing and cake baking – the results of which you’ll find in the same building.
Ban Hom Samunphrai (0 5381 7362; www.homprang.com; 93/2 Moo 12; treatments 500-800B) is a unique time capsule of old folk ways, 9km from Chiang Mai near the McKean Institute. Maw Hom (‘Herbal Doctor’) is a licensed herb practitioner and massage therapist, but learned most of her craft from her grandmother, a midwife and herbalist living near the Burmese border. She runs a traditional herbal steam bath recreating what was once a common feature of rural villages. Traditional Thai massage is also available and can be combined with a steam bath for an upcountry ‘spa’ session. Call for directions.
Thai Massage Conservation Club ( Map; 0 5390 4452; 99 Th Ratchamankha; massage 150B) We’re not sure why it’s the case, but Chiang Mai’s massage world likes to form their own clubs complete with banners and overly ornate names. This particular massage group employs all blind masseuses, who are considered to be expert practitioners because of their heightened sense of touch.
Dheva Spa (0 5388 8888; www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel; Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Th Chiang Mai-San Kamphaeng; treatments from 3400B) The grandest spa in all of Chiang Mai is an architectural treasure, built to look like the ancient Burmese palace located at Mandalay. It is also a cheaper passport into the exclusive and stunning grounds of the luxurious Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi resort than a night’s stay there would be. Try the tok sen massage, an old Lanna technique that uses a wooden gavel to tap on pressure points. Now you’ll know how a piece of carved wood feels.
RarinJinda Wellness Spa Resort ( Map; 0 5330 3030; www.rarinjinda.com; 14 Th Charoenrat; treatments from 1500B) This health retreat boasts one of Chiang Mai’s largest hydrotherapy pools as well as Vichy shower and sauna (both steam and infrared). Their spa packages are surprisingly affordable for the usual menu of body polishes, massage and even a few zingers like Tibetan sound therapy.
Oasis Spa ( Map; 0 5381 5000; www.chiangmaioasis.com; 4 Th Samlan; treatments 1900-2500B; 10am-10pm) A tranquil garden setting navigated by elevated walkways hosts private villas for single or couples treatments. If you’ve spa-ed elsewhere in Thailand, the Oasis will be a familiar friend, offering scrubs, wraps, massage and ayurvedic treatments.
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If you’re just curious about massage and don’t want to make a serious commitment, you might also consider the following ‘home grown’ alternatives.
Thai Healing Arts Association at Wat Si Koet ( Map; 0 4042 2452; Th Ratchadamnoen; courses 3000-6000B) On the temple grounds, Khun Nek teaches three- to 10-day courses on body and foot massage.
Ban Nit ( Map; 08 1035 2103; Soi 2, Th Chaiyaphum; courses 1000-4000B) The long-time teacher, Khun Nit, has retired at the ripe age of 76, but her daughter Noy now teaches the informal classes; stop in for a visit to see if the family suits