Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [256]
100% Isan Restaurant ( Map; Th Huay Kaew; dishes 60-200B; 5-11pm) Directly in front of CMU’s main gate, this fluorescent-lit shop does a bumping business of northeastern standards: sôm·am, kôw ne·o and gài yâhng. From the looks of it, everyone who leaves the university gets hungry when they hear the mortar-and-pestle music of sôm·am.
Ban Kaew Heuan Kam (0 5381 1616; 96/8 Th Klorng Chonprathan; dishes 65-185B; 5-10pm) Outside of town on the klorng road, this pretty teak building is a thoroughly Thai affair (even the menu is written in Thai) and it’s a lovely spot to invite a Thai speaker to dinner. Without a translator, the first two pages of the menu are mainly northern Thai dishes (such as #1008 frog salad, #1014 steamed chicken in pandanus leaf, #2003 Burmese-style curry and #2012 fish curry with forest vegetables).
Implaphao Restaurant (0 5380 6603; Rte 121; dishes 80-160B) Dining by the water is an appetising feature for Thais and this barn-like restaurant lures in the supping parties for lah pw (broiled fish stuffed with aromatic herbs) and ôm yam gûng. It isn’t the easiest restaurant to reach since it is 10km southwest of Chiang Mai, across from Talat Mae Huay, but it is an undiluted Thai experience.
Dong ( Map; 0 5322 2207; Soi 13, Th Nimmanhaemin; dishes 90-200B; 11am-3pm) Northern Thai food for northern Thai people, Dong nails the Lanna specialities – nám prík nùm, lâhp kôo·a and gaang hang·lair – in a gewgaw-free setting, an incredible demonstration of restraint considering Chiang Mai’s obsession with wooden knick-knacks. But the service is so slow you’ll wonder if they had to trek to Burma to fetch the dishes.
Galare Restaurant (0 5381 1041; 65 Th Suthep; dishes 90-200B; 5-11pm) Out on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, Galare is a terraced open-air restaurant nestled by a small lake and a green park that overlooks the city. A carpet of flowers fills in the spaces between the wooden picnic tables. The menu is mainly northern Thai, and though it’s not spectacular you’ll hardly notice more than the tranquil setting.
Palaad Tawanron (0 5321 6039; Th Suthep; dishes 90-350B; 11.30am-midnight) Set in the woods near Doi Suthep, this restaurant draws in Thais and foreigners alike for the Thai food and the spectacular views over twinkly Chiang Mai. To truly eat like a Thai you should order a centrepiece of grilled fish adorned with smaller Northern Thai curries and salads. Entry is via the rear gate to Chiang Mai Zoo.
INTERNATIONAL
I-Berry ( Map; 0 5389 5181; sub soi off Soi 17, Th Nimmanhaemin; dishes from 50B) A Bangkok-based ice-cream store has churned a pretty wooden lot into a hip phenomenon. Students and locals flock here with cameras in tow hoping to run into the famous owner, comedian Udom Taepanich (nicknamed ‘Nose’). If he’s not around they’ll settle for the huge yellow sculpture out front said to mimic the star’s signature feature (his big nose). The ice cream is pretty good, but watching Chiang Mai’s celebrity worship is even better.
Tsunami (08 7189 9338; Th Huay Kaew; dishes 60-180B; 5.30-11.30pm) CMU students are really into Kyoto-style ramen and sushi stalls, which have sprung up all along Th Huay Kaew. The most famous is Tsunami, which always has a wait even during ìt teum (semester break). If you can’t get a seat head further north to Na Mor Sushi, which is unsigned but recognisable by the big wok out front.
Smoothie Blues ( Map; Th Nimmanhaemin; dishes 90-140B; 7.30am-9pm) Talk about expat HQ, this health-food cafe is an escapee from a yuppie neighbourhood in any Western city. Despite the geographic dislocation, the cafe is known for its breakfasts, as well as its sandwiches, baguettes and namesake drink.
Mi Casa ( Map; 0 5381 0088; Soi Wat Padaeng, Th Suthep; dishes 200-500B; 11am-2pm & 6-10pm) A Mediterranean crash course is available