Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [257]
Elsewhere
Chiang Mai reveals its Chinese heritage with its devotion to pork products, most obvious in the northern Thai speciality of sâi òo·a (pork sausage). Good quality sâi òo·a should be zesty and spicy with discernible flavours of lemongrass, ginger and turmeric. Two famous sausage makers are Mengrai Sai Ua (Th Chiang Mai-Lamphun), near the Holiday Inn on the east bank of the river, and Sai Ua Gao Makham (Rte 121), a small stall in Talat Mae Huay (Mae Huay market), which is a few kilometres south of the Night Safari on the way to Hang Dong.
Vegetarian Centre of Chiang Mai ( Map; 0 5327 1262; 14 Th Mahidol; dishes 15-30B; 6am-2pm Mon-Fri) Sponsored by the Asoke Foundation, an ascetic Buddhist movement, this restaurant serves inexpensive cafeteria-style veg. The society’s founder was a leader of the PAD anti-government movement and the restaurant was closed at the time of writing due to the demonstrations in Bangkok.
Spirit House ( Map; 08 4803 4366; Soi Viangbua, Th Chang Pheuak; dishes 100-200B) Sometimes the most charming restaurants are just display cases for an eccentric personality. This antique-filled dining room is the creative outlet for the American owner who’s a master of many trades, from antique dealer to classical musician. A former chef in New Orleans, he’s a self-described ‘nut about food’ and builds the daily menu around what looks interesting at the market. The restaurant hosts monthly classical concerts and many of the city’s music professors and students hang out here. In the low season, the restaurant is open 5.30pm to 10.30pm.
Fujian (0 5388 8888; Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Hotel, Th Chiang Mai-San Kamphaeng; dishes from 400B; 11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm) Thais traditionally celebrate a special occasion with a trip to a Chinese restaurant. And Chiang Mai is especially well-endowed with celebratory fare thanks to this sumptuous setting at the Dhara Dhevi hotel. Top-flight dim sum fills the lunch menu while Cantonese and Sichuan classics are served family-style on fine bone china.
DRINKING
There are three types of watering holes in Chiang Mai: the backpacker bars on Th Moon Muang and Th Ratwithi, the student bars and clubs on Th Nimmanhaemin, and the riverside restaurants for live music. Chiang Mai is much more monogamous about nighttime encounters than Bangkok: the beloved bars have been around forever and are rarely the newest tap on the block. Another plus is that Thais in Chiang Mai aren’t shy or snobby about hanging out with foreigners, so you’re likely to find more mixed spots here than in Bangkok.
On Th Ratwithi near the intersection of Th Ratchaphakhinai is a parking lot filled with squatty bars with twinkling fairy lights and thundering sound systems. We’ve heard that this little piece of heaven is going to be torn down, but that’s all the details we could find. Bob Marley–homage bars are fully represented here thanks to Babylon ( Map) and Heaven Beach ( Map), while Cafe del Sol ( Map) has garnered a steady crowd with its cheap cocktail menu.
Writer’s Club & Wine Bar ( Map; 08 1928 2066; 141/3 Th Ratchadamnoen) Run by an ex-foreign correspondent, this unassuming traveller hangout hosts an informal Friday night gathering of Chiang Mai’s reporters and writers. There’s also English pub grub to help anchor a liquid meal.
UN Irish Pub ( Map; 0 5321 4554; 24/1 Th Ratwithi) A standard-issue backpacker joint, this two-storey bar and restaurant is an old favourite for its Thursday quiz night and match nights. There’s nothing particularly Irish here other than an interest in drinking.
John’s Place (Place on the Corner; Map; Th Moon Muang) Another old-school spot, John’s dominates the triangular wedge of Th Ratchamankha and Soi 2 with neon and beer bellies. Climb the stairs past the faded posters of Thai scenery to the roof deck where you and your