Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [273]
The river isn’t the only way to get to points north of Tha Ton. The road trip along the mountain ridge to the village of Mae Salong in Chiang Rai Province is one of our favourite routes in Thailand. Yellow srng·ta·ou leave from the northern side of the river in Tha Ton to Mae Salong (70B, 1½ hours, every two hours between 8am and 12.30pm).
To get to Mai Sai (70B to 90B) or Chiang Rai (95B to 105B) directly, take the afternoon bus from the bridge.
If you’re heading west to Mae Hong Son Province, it’s not necessary to dip all the way south to Chiang Mai before continuing on. At Mae Malai, the junction of Rte 107 (the Chiang Mai–Fang highway) and Rte 1095, you can pick up a bus to Pai for 65B; if you’re coming from Pai, be sure to get off at this junction to catch a bus north to Fang.
MOTORCYCLE
Motorcycle trekkers can travel between Tha Ton and Doi Mae Salong, 48km northeast, over a fully paved but sometimes treacherous mountain road. There are a couple of Lisu and Akha villages on the way. The 27km or so between the village of Muang Ngam and Doi Mae Salong are very steep and winding – take care, especially in the rainy season. When conditions are good, the trip can be done in 1½ hours.
SOUTHERN CHIANG MAI PROVINCE
To the immediate south of Chiang Mai is the Ping Valley, a fertile agricultural plain that has also grown some noteworthy handicraft villages. Further to the southwest is Thailand’s highest peak, Doi Inthanon.
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BO SANG & SAN KAMPHAENG
Southeast of Chiang Mai is Bo Sang, known throughout the country as the ‘umbrella village’. It is mainly a tourist market filled with craft shops selling painted umbrellas (often produced elsewhere), fans, silverware, statuary, celadon pottery and lacquerware. You’ll find many of the same items at the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar but there’s a greater concentration and variety here.
In late January the Bo Sang Umbrella Festival (têt·sà·gahn rôm) features a colourful umbrella procession during the day and a night-time lantern procession. Although it sounds touristy, this festival is actually a very Thai affair; a highlight are the many northern-Thai music ensembles that perform in shopfronts along Bo Sang’s main street.
Further down Rte 1006 is San Kamphaeng, known for its cotton and silk weaving shops. The main street is lined with textile showrooms while the actual weaving is done in small factories down side streets. You can take a peek if you like.
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Getting There & Away
White srng·ta·ou to Bo Sang (20B) and San Kamphaeng (20B) leave Chiang Mai frequently during the day from the srng·ta·ou stop on Th Praisani near Talat Warorot. Bo Sang is 10km from Chiang Mai and San Kamphaeng is 14km.
MAE KAMPONG
If you plough across the Ping Valley on Rte 1317 past the rice fields and cow pastures to Mae On district, the road begins to narrow and climb into the forested hills of Mae Kampong, an area that has recently started to entice visitors for a day or overnight excursion because of its interesting combination of nature and cultural activities. Most visitors are first introduced to the area on daytrips with Flight of the Gibbons ( Click here), a zipline canopy tour.
Sitting at an altitude of about 1300m, Ban Mae Kampong is a Thai village that produces mêeang (pickled tea leaves), the northern Thai equivalent of betel nut. Most villagers make their living in this small-scale industry and head out into the forest to collect the tea leaves. In the early mornings the pickers stop by the local temple where the monk has prepared a restorative brew of medicinal herbs. The village itself is a gravity-defying collection of maze-like huts hugging the steep hillside. Flowers bow in the cool breezes and the jungle insects screech at each other. Several families participate in a homestay program (0 5322 9526; per person 980B) that includes three meals and basic lodging.
The narrow road through the village summits the hill and winds down into Chae Son National Park ( Click here), where