Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [274]
If the natural solitude is appealing, stay awhile at one of the nature lodges south of the village. Tharnthong Lodge (0 5393 9472; www.tharnthonglodges.com; r 1200-4000B) is bisected by a pebble-strewn stream crossed by a wooden bridge to the six houses dotting the property. If you don’t need a bed, stop by the restaurant to enjoy the affordable Thai food (dishes 70B to 180B). Closer to the village is John’s House Bed & Breakfast (0 9813 2559; www.johnhousethailand.com; r 1500B), built on stilts across a deep ravine.
Mae Kampong is 48km east of Chiang Mai and can be reached by following Rte 1317 toward San Kamphaeng. At the T-junction at Ban Huay Kaew, turn right towards the signs for Ban Mae Kampong.
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HANG DONG, BAN WAN & BAN THAWAI
Just 15km south of Chiang Mai is a veritable ‘furniture highway’ where stores and workshops specialise in decorative arts, woodcarving, antiques and contemporary furniture.
The shops along Rte 108 in Hang Dong are impossible to explore on foot and still a bit of a pain in a car. The high-end Gàht Farang (Rte 108) walking mall has attempted to remedy the problem of access, but it may never be filled to capacity. North of Hang Dong centre, near Amarin Place, Siam Lanna Art (0 5382 3419; Rte 108) is an eccentric stop for junk aficionados. We’re told it is a great spot for browsing, but impossible to buy from as no one knows the prices.
A greater concentration of stores can be found in Ban Wan on Th Thakhilek, the first left turn after Talat Hang Dong. A cluster of stores near the intersection sells antique reproductions using new wood; in times past they used salvaged teak but most of that is now gone. Further down the road is Chili Antiques & Arts (0 5343 3281; 125 Th Thakhilek), a massive showroom of bronze and wooden Buddhas, sculptures, wood carvings and fine decor. Across the street is Jirakarn Antique (0 5344 1615; 137 Th Thakhilek), an old-fashioned junk shop selling salvaged teak. Crossroads Asia (0 5343 4650; Chaiyo Plaza, 214/7 Th Thakhilek) is the Pier One of Thailand, selling ethnic art and antiques from across Asia.
Continue toward the right fork in the road to Ban Thawai Tourism Village, which is a pedestrian-friendly market with 3km of shops selling all sorts of home decor. Past Zone 5 is Sriboonmuang’s workshop, an example of what made Ban Thawai famous in the first place. In the factory’s covered sheds, workers sand and polish small armies of wooden elephants, hobby horses and dolls.
Many of the shops here deal in wholesale as well as retail, and shipping can be arranged. It is advisable to come with private transport, but you can catch a srng·ta·ou from Pratu Chiang Mai to Hang Dong (10B) and to Ban Thawai (15B).
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SAN PA THONG
Further south on Rte 108, this overgrown village is home to a huge and lively water buffalo and cattle market (5.30am-11am Sat), held weekly next door to the Temple of the Sleeping Buddha. The mechanical machines, namely motorcycles, now outnumber the livestock.
On the outskirts of San Pa Thong, Kao Mai Lanna Resort Hotel (0 5383 4470; www.kaomailanna.com; Km29, Th Chiang Mai-Hot; r 2500-3500B; ) is almost reason enough to travel this far. The resort has turned many of the property’s abandoned tobacco-curing sheds into characterful and comfortable lodgings amid a lush garden setting. This used to be one of many northern Thai tobacco farms supplying the international cigarette market before China supplanted the local growers. The resort also arranges tours to the nearby handicraft villages (which are truly villages instead of souvenir markets). Even if you don’t stay here, the outdoor restaurant serves superb Thai food.
Back behind the resort is a scenic village filled with lam yai orchards and old ladies cycling about. Deeper into the narrow lanes is Pee Goon’s Saa House (08 4613 8450), a small cottage industry employing about 100 villagers in the process of making craft paper from mulberry bark. Pi Goon can show you the process; bring