Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [282]
Despite having lost much of its character in a recent renovation, the mon·dòp at Wat Pongsanuk Tai is still one of the few remaining local examples of original Lanna-style temple architecture, which emphasised open-sided wooden buildings. To get an idea of what it was like previously, look at the carved wooden gateway at the entrance to the north stairway.
Wat Chedi Sao (0 5432 0233), about 6km north of town towards Jae Hom, is named for the sow (northern Thai for 20) whitewashed Lanna-style chedi on its grounds. But the wát’s real treasure is a solid-gold, 15th-century seated Buddha on display in a glassed-in pavilion (8am-5pm), built over a square pond. The image is said to contain a piece of the Buddha’s skull in its head and an ancient Pali-inscribed golden palm leaf in its chest; precious stones decorate the image’s hairline and robe. A farmer reportedly found the figure next to the ruins of nearby Wat Khu Kao in 1983. Monks stationed at Wat Chedi Sao make and sell herbal medicines; the popular yah mòrng is similar to tiger balm.
BAAN SAO NAK
In the old Wiang Neua (North City) section of town, Baan Sao Nak (0 5422 7653; 85 Th Ratwathana; admission 50B; 10am-5pm) was built in 1895 in the traditional Lanna style. A huge teak house supported by 116 square teak pillars, it was once owned by a local kun·yng (a title equivalent to ‘Lady’ in England); it now serves as a local museum. The entire house is furnished with Burmese and Thai antiques, but the real treasure is the structure itself and its manicured garden.
WALKING STREET
Perhaps wanting to emulate the success of Chiang Mai’s street markets, Lampang now has its own along the charming Th Talat Kao (also known as Kat Korng Ta). Dotted with old shophouses showcasing English, Chinese and Burmese architectural styles, the street is closed to traffic on Saturday and Sunday from 4pm to 10pm and fills up with souvenir, handicraft and food stalls.
Activities
HORSE CARTS
Lampang is known throughout Thailand as Meuang Rot Mah (Horse Cart City) because it’s the only town in Thailand where horse carts are still found, although nowadays they are exclusively used for tourists. You can’t miss the brightly coloured horse carts that drip with nylon flowers, and are handled by Stetson-wearing drivers. A 15-minute horse-cart tour around town costs 150B; for 200B you can get a half-hour tour that goes along the Mae Wang. For 300B a one-hour tour stops at Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao and Wat Si Rong Meuang. Horse carts can be found near the larger hotels and just east of the market on Th Boonyawat.
TRADITIONAL MASSAGE
The Samakhom Samunphrai Phak Neua (08 9758 2396; 149 Th Pratuma; massage per hr 200B, sauna 100B; 8am-7.30pm), next to Wat Hua Khuang in the Wiang Neua area, offers traditional northern-Thai massage and herbal saunas. Slightly closer to downtown, Deuan Den Thai Massage (08 7305 9838; 41/1 Th Phai Mai; 10am-7pm) offers traditional massage and other basic spa services.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Tip Inn Guest House (0 5422 1821; 143 Th Talat Kao; r 150-350B; ) Although the cheapies are little more than a bed in a box, Tip Inn is a homey alternative to the city’s overwhelmingly characterless budget hotels. It’s also the only accommodation to be located smack-dab in the middle of historic Th Talat Kao.
TT&T Back Packer Guesthouse (0 5422 1303; 82 Th Pa Mai; r 200-350B; ) Proceed directly to the newer building in the back that offers fleeting glances of the Mae Wang. Bathrooms are shared here, but this is made up for by the attractive and comfortable chill-out area downstairs. A good bargain find.
Kim Hotel (0 5421 7721; 168 Th Boonyawat; s/d 250/350B; ) Although they are significantly in need of a dose of character, the rooms here are clean, comfortable and have TV. If full, proceed directly across the street to the virtually identical Kelangnakorn Hotel (0 5421 6137; 719-720 Th Suan Dok; s/d 230/290B; ).
Riverside Guest House (0 5422 7005; www.theriversidelampang.com; 286 Th Talat Kao; r 300-800B; )