Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [283]
Hotel Kim City (0 5431 0238-40; 274/1 Th Chatchai; r incl breakfast 400-900, ste 1100B) You’ll probably be led to the ground-floor cheapies, but do yourself a favour and request a room upstairs to avoid the mustiness. Small groups travelling on a budget will be happy to find an abundance of huge triple rooms.
Asia Lampang Hotel (0 5422 7844; www.asialampang.com; 229 Th Boonyawat; r 490-550B; ) The cheaper rooms on the ground floor are starkly plain and a bit dark, but for a tiny bit more go up a couple of floors where the wood-panelled rooms represent decent value.
Pin Hotel (0 5422 1509; 8 Th Suan Dok; r 500-950; ) Spotless, spacious and secluded, the rooms here come decked out with cable TV, minibar and large bathrooms. A travel agent is attached and books domestic and international flights. An excellent choice.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Lampang Wiengtong Hotel (0 5422 5801/2; www.lampangwiengthonghotel.com; 138/109 Th Phahonyothin; r 600-1200, ste 2500B; ) Not surprisingly, Lampang’s largest hotel also boasts some of the largest rooms we’ve seen anywhere. The bad news is that little if any effort is made at making them pleasant to the eye. The budget rooms, on the other hand, are cramped and boast the tiniest bathtubs we’ve seen outside of Tokyo.
Tipchang Lampang Hotel (0 5422 6501; www.tipchanghotel.com; 54/22 Th Thakhrao Noi; r incl breakfast 700-1400B, ste 1500-2000B; ) Large and imposing from the outside, but in need of an update of its ‘vintage’ 1970s-style rooms. A pool and the view from the top floors justify a stay at this wannabe top ender.
Wienglakor Hotel (0 5431 6430-5; www.wienglakor.com; 138/35 Th Phahonyothin; r 900-2400, ste 2500B; ) If you’re going to go upscale, this is Lampang’s best choice. The lobby is tastefully decorated in a teak and northern Thai temple theme, a design that continues into the rooms. Deluxe rooms feature an added sitting area and walk-in closet, and the hotel’s attractive outdoor dining area with carp pond is a nice touch.
Eating
For a relatively small town, Lampang boasts a pretty strong repertoire of restaurants, ranging from northern Thai to Western fare, and a few things in between.
Lampang is known for its addictive kôw aan, deep-fried rice cakes drizzled with palm sugar, the making of which can be observed at Khun Manee (0 5431 2272; 35 Th Ratsada).
Pa Pawng (08 5706 7748; 125 Th Talat Kao; dishes 20-30B; 7am-10pm Sat & Sun) If you happen to be in town on a weekend, be sure to stop by this popular local haunt serving kà·nm jeen (fresh rice noodles topped with various curries). You can’t miss it (simply look for a row of bubbling curries in earthenware pots), and ordering is a snap (simply point to whatever looks good). Auntie Pawng’s speciality is kà·nm jeen nám ngée·o, a delicious northern-style broth of pork and tomato.
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NORTHERN NOSH
Much like the language, Thailand’s food seems to take a slightly different form every time you cross a provincial border. The cuisine of Thailand’s northern provinces is no exception and is indicative of the region’s seasonal and relatively cool climate, not to mention a love for pork, veggies and all things deep-fried. Traditionally, the residents of Thailand’s north ate almost exclusively kôw ne·o, sticky rice, known in the local dialect as kôw nêung. Coconut milk rarely makes its way into the northern kitchen, and northern Thai cuisine is probably the least spicy of Thailand’s regional schools of cooking, often relying on bitter or bitter/hot flavours instead.
Paradoxically (and unfortunately), it can be quite difficult to find authentic local food outside of Chiang Mai and the other large cities in Northern Thailand. There are relatively few restaurants