Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [284]
Gaang hang·lair – Burmese in origin (hang is a corruption of the Burmese hin, meaning curry), this rich pork curry is often seen at festivals and ceremonies.
Kâap mo – deep-fried pork crackling is a common – and delicious – side dish in northern Thailand.
Kôw gân jîn – banana leaf packets of rice mixed with blood that are steamed and served with garlic oil.
Kôw soy – this popular curry-based noodle dish is most likely Burmese in origin, and was probably introduced to northern Thailand by travelling Chinese merchants.
Kà·nm jeen nám ngée·o – fresh rice noodles served with a spaghetti-like pork- and tomato-based broth.
Lâhp kôo·a – literally ‘fried lâhp’, this dish takes the famous Thai minced-meat ‘salad’ and fries it with a mixture of local bitter/hot dried spices and herbs.
Lôo – raw blood mixed with a curry paste and served over deep-fried intestines and crispy noodles – the most hardcore northern dish of all.
Nam – fermented raw pork, a sour delicacy that tastes much better than it sounds.
Nám prík nùm – green chillies, shallots and garlic that are grilled then mashed into a paste served with sticky rice, parboiled veggies and deep-fried pork crackling.
Nám prík òrng – a chili dip of Shan origin made from tomatoes and minced pork – a northern Thai bolognese of sorts.
Sâi òo·a – a grilled pork sausage supplemented with copious fresh herbs.
Ŧam sôm oh – the northern Thai version of sôm·am substitutes pomelo for green papaya.
Đôm yam – the northern Thai version of this Thai staple is flavoured with some of the same bitter/spicy dried spices featured in lâhp kôoa.
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Aroy One Baht (08 970 0944; cnr Th Suan Dok & Th Talat Kao; dishes 20-90B; 4pm-midnight) Some nights it can seem like just about everybody in Lampang has gathered at this rambling wooden house, and understandably so; the food is delicious and embarrassingly cheap, the service lightning fast, and the setting in a wooden house-cum-balcony-cum-garden heaps of fun.
Pet Yang Hong Kong (Th Boonyawat; dishes 25-60B; 8am-6pm) This is the best spot for roast duck with rice (or noodles). It’s opposite Kim Hotel, near several other rice and noodle joints.
Grandma’s Café (0 5432 2792; 361 Th Thip Chang; dishes 30-40B; 10am-9pm) Well-worn teak chairs and doily window shades suggest grandma’s influence, but we doubt she had any role in the slate greys and minimalist feel of this trendy coffee shop. Regardless, stop by for decent java and a menu of rice dishes that rarely exceeds the 30B barrier.
Krua 312 (Th Thip Chang; dishes 30-60B; 10am-9pm) Set in a charming wooden shophouse and surrounded by black-and-white pictures of Lampang and the king, this tiny, simple restaurant serves good curries, noodle and rice dishes.
Riverside Bar & Restaurant (0 5422 1861; 328 Th Thip Chang; dishes 45-225B; 11am-midnight) This wooden shack that appears to be on the verge of tumbling into the Mae Wang is extremely popular with visiting and resident foreigners. Live music, a full bar and an expansive menu of local and Western dishes bring in the crowds, and you’d be wise to plan your visit around the homemade pizza nights (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday).
Khawng Kin Ban Haw (72 Th Jama Thewi; dishes 50-110B; lunch & dinner) Located just outside the centre of town but worth the trip, this local favourite is most popular after dark when a bottle of whisky is regarded as a typical side dish. This is a good place to try northern Thai staples such as gaang kaa gòp (a herb-laden soup with frog) or lâhp kôo·a (lâhp that has been stir-fried with local spices).
Self-caterers or those interested in local eats will want to check out Lampang’s evening market (Th Ratsada; 4-8pm) where steaming baskets of sticky rice and dozens of sides to dip it in are on daily display. Cheap and authentic northern Thai food can also be found at the few lunch stalls (Th Phahonyothin;