Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [287]
The popular one-day course involves learning a few simple commands for leading an elephant, experimenting with dung paper, riding an elephant in the jungle and a tour of the elephant hospital. A more involved three-day, two-night homestay (0 5424 7875; 2/3 days 5800/8500B) program includes all meals, a night’s lodging in a well-equipped wood-and-bamboo bungalow and another night at a jungle camp, plus a general introduction to elephant care and training.
Packages are for two people or more and all food and accommodation is provided. Long-term courses are often booked far in advance, so call ahead.
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Both facilities can be reached by Chiang Mai–bound bus or srng·ta·ou (25B) from Lampang’s main bus terminal. Let the driver know where you are headed and get off at the Km37 marker. The centre is 1.5km from the highway, and shuttle buses will take you inside. Alternatively, you can hire a blue srng·ta·ou for 350B to 500B at the bus terminal.
If you have your own transport, on the way to the elephant camp, 25km from Lampang, is the Thung Kwian market. Very popular with Thais, this market is a crash course in northern Thai food and handicraft, offering everything from rót dòo·an (deep-fried worms, a northern speciality), to the distinctive rooster bowls made in Lampang.
Other Attractions
North and east of Lampang are the cotton-weaving villages of Jae Hom and Mae Tha. You can wander around and find looms in action; there are also plenty of shops along the main roads.
Ngao district, 85km north of Lampang, has developed something approaching a buzz for its numerous low-key attractions, although most of these would be quite inconvenient to visit without a private vehicle. Tham Pha Thai (Pha Thai Cave) and the national park of the same name are located 20km south of Ngao. Besides the usual cave formations, Tham Pha Thai contains a large Buddha image. Wat Chong Kham, 15km south of Ngao, features a Burmese-style wooden wí·hhn with a seven-tiered roof. The temple is also home to the largest Buddhist school in northern Thailand, and dozens of young monks and novices can be seen studying in outdoor classrooms during the daytime. Wat Mon Sai Non, just south of the turn-off to Ngao, is located on a hill and offers views of the surrounding area. Ngao town features an aged suspension bridge. The only accommodation in the area is the self-proclaimed ‘karaoke’ resort Sompong Resort (08 1746 5270; Asia 1 Hwy; r 500B), located about 3km south of the turn-off to Ngao.
Lampang is well endowed with waterfalls. Three are found within Amphoe Wang Neua, roughly 120km north of the provincial capital: Wang Kaew, Wang Thong and Than Thong (Jampa Thong). Wang Kaew is the largest, with 110 tiers. Near the summit is a Mien hill-tribe village. This area became part of the 1172-sq-km Doi Luang National Park (0 5316 3363; Tambon Mae Yen, Amphoe Phan, Chiang Rai; admission 200B) in 1990; animals protected by the park include serows, barking deer, pangolins and pig-tailed macaques.
In Amphoe Meuang Pan, about halfway between Wang Neua and Lampang, is another waterfall, Nam Tok Jae Sawn, part of the 593-sq-km Chae Son National Park (0 5422 9000; Tambon Jae Son, Amphoe Muang Ban, Lampang; admission 200B). Elevations in the park reach above 2000m. Jae Sawn has six drops, each with its own pool; close to the falls are nine hot springs. Small huts house circular baths, recessed into the floor and lined with clay tiles, that are continuously filled with water direct from the spring. For 20B you can take a 20-minute soak, preceded and followed by an invigorating cold-water shower.
Camping is permitted in both Chae Son and Doi Luang national parks. Chae Son has a visitors centre, 12 bungalows for hire and a restaurant, but food must be ordered in advance of your visit. Several privately run food/snack stalls provide sustenance as well. For further information, and to book accommodation, contact the Royal Forest Department (0 2562 0760; www.dnp .go.th).
CHIANG RAI PROVINCE
Chiang Rai, Thailand’s