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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [288]

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northernmost province, has a bit of everything: the mountains in the far east of the province are among the most dramatic in the country, the lowland Mekong River floodplains to the northeast are not unlike those one would find much further south in Isan, and the province shares borders with Myanmar and Laos, allowing relatively easy access to China.

In terms of people, it’s also among Thailand’s most ethnically diverse provinces, and is home to a significant minority of hill tribes, Shan and other Tai groups, and relatively recent Chinese immigrants.


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CHIANG RAI

pop 61,188

Chiang Rai province has such a diversity of attractions, that its capital city is often overlooked. If you take the time to know it, Chiang Rai is a small but delightful city with a relaxed atmosphere, good value accommodation and some tasty eats. It’s also the ideal base from which to plan excursions to the more remote corners of the province.

Founded by Phaya Mengrai in 1262 as part of the Lao-Thai Lanna kingdom, Chiang Rai didn’t become a Siamese territory till 1786, then a province in 1910.


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Information

BOOKSHOPS

Gare Garon (869/18 Th Phahonyothin; 10am-10pm) Mainly new books with a smattering of overpriced used ones; also sells coffee, tea and some handicrafts.

Orn’s Bookshop (08 1022 0318; 8am-8pm) By far the best used bookshop in Chiang Rai, this place is run by the eccentric and discerning Peter. His superb collection of books spans many languages.

EMERGENCY

Tourist Police (0 5374 0249; Th Phahonyothin; 24hrs) English is spoken and police are on stand-by 24 hours a day.

INTERNET ACCESS

Internet access is readily available around town and costs around 30B per hour. It’s especially abundant around the night market.

Connect Café (0 5374 0688; 868/10 Th Phahonyothin; 10.30am-10.30pm) This colourful, funky internet cafe serves homemade brownies and good coffee while you’re typing away. It has an overseas call service, burns digital photos onto CDs, sells books and maps, and plays chilled-out music.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Overbrook Hospital (0 5371 1366; www.overbrookhospital.com; Th Singkhlai) English is spoken in this modern hospital.

MONEY

There is an abundance of banks and ATMs on both Th Phahonyothin and Th Thanalai.

POST

Main post office (Th Utarakit; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) South of Wat Phra Singh.

TELEPHONE

Many internet places offer international call services, including Connect Café (above).

Communications Authority of Thailand office (CAT; cnr Th Ratchadat Damrong & Th Ngam Meuang; 7am-11pm Mon-Fri) Offers international telephone, internet and fax services.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourism Authority of Thailand office (TAT; 0 5374 4674, 0 5371 1433; tatchrai@tat.or.th; Th Singkhlai; 8.30am-4.30pm) English is limited, but staff here do their best to give advice, and can provide a small selection of maps and brochures.

Sights

WAT PHRA KAEW

Originally called Wat Pa Yia (Bamboo Forest Monastery) in local dialect, this is the city’s most revered Buddhist temple. Legend has it that in 1434 lightning struck the temple’s octagonal chedi, which fell apart to reveal the Phra Kaew Morakot, or Emerald Buddha (actually made of jade). After a long journey that included a long stopover in Vientiane, Laos (see boxed text, Click here), this national talisman is now ensconced in the temple of the same name in Bangkok.

In 1990 Chiang Rai commissioned a Chinese artist to sculpt a new image from Canadian jade. Named the Phra Yok Chiang Rai (Chiang Rai Jade Buddha), it was intentionally a very close but not exact replica of the Phra Kaew Morakot in Bangkok, with dimensions of 48.3cm across the base and 65.9cm in height, just 0.1cm shorter than the original. The image is housed in the impressive Haw Phra Yoke, the walls of which are decorated with beautiful modern murals, some depicting the journey of the original Phra Kaew Morakot, as well as the elaborate ceremony that saw the current image arrive at its new home in Chiang Rai.

The main prayer

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