Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [289]
WAT PHRA SINGH
Housing yet another copy of a famous Buddha image, this temple was built in the late 14th century during the reign of Chiang Rai’s King Mahaphrom. A sister temple to Chiang Mai’s Wat Phra Singh, its original buildings are typical northern Thai–style wood structures with low, sweeping roofs. The impressive wooden doors are thought to have been carved by local artists. The main wí·hhn houses a copy of Chiang Mai’s Phra Singh Buddha.
OTHER TEMPLES
The seven-spired chedi at Wat Jet Yot (Th Jet Yot) is similar to that of its Chiang Mai namesake, but without stucco ornamentation. Of more aesthetic interest is the wooden ceiling of the front veranda of the main wí·hhn, which features a unique Thai astrological fresco.
Wat Klang Wiang (cnr Th Ratanaket & Th Utarakit) appears thoroughly modern, but dates back at least 500 years. Extensive remodelling in the early ’90s has left several structures in the temple with a unique ‘modern Lanna’ style, but the elegant hr rai (manuscript depository) appears to retain its original form.
The hilltop Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong has partial views of the river and gets an occasional river breeze. The Lanna-style chedi here most likely dates from the 14th to 16th centuries, and may cover an earlier Mon chedi inside. King Mengrai, Chiang Rai’s founder, first surveyed the site for the city from this peak.
OUB KHAM MUSEUM
This privately-owned museum (0 5371 3349; www.oubkhammuseum.com; 81/1 Military Front Rd; admission adult/child 300/100B; 8am-5pm) houses an impressive collection of paraphernalia from virtually every corner of the former Lanna kingdom. The items, some of which truly are one of a kind, range from a monkey bone food taster used by Lanna royalty to an impressive carved throne from Chiang Tung, Myanmar. Guided tours (available in English) are obligatory, and include a walk through a gilded artificial cave holding several Buddha statues, complete with disco lights and fake torches! The grounds of the museum are equally kitschy, and include a huge golden naga (mythical serpent-like being with magical powers) statue and countless waterfalls and fountains. Truly an equal parts bizarre and enlightening experience.
HILLTRIBE MUSEUM & EDUCATION CENTER
This museum and handicrafts centre (0 5374 0088; www.pda.or.th/chiangrai; 3rd fl, 620/1 Th Thanalai; admission 50B; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) is a good place to visit before undertaking any hill tribe trek. The centre, run by the nonprofit Population & Community Development Association (PDA), is underwhelming in its visual presentation, but contains a wealth of information on Thailand’s various tribes and the issues that surround them. A visit begins with a 20-minute slide show on Thailand’s hill tribes, and exhibits include typical clothing for six major tribes, examples of bamboo usage, folk implements and other anthropological objects. The curator is passionate about his museum, and will talk about the different hill tribes, their histories, recent trends and the community projects that the museum helps fund. The PDA also runs highly recommended treks (see opposite). There’s a gift shop and a branch of Bangkok’s Cabbages & Condoms restaurant is on the premises.
THAM TU PU & BUDDHA CAVE
If you follow Th Winitchaikul across the bridge to the northern side of Mae Nam Kok, you’ll come to a turn-off for both Tham Tu Pu and the Buddha Cave. Follow the road 1km, then turn off onto a dirt path 200m to the base of a limestone cliff where there is a steep set of stairs leading to a main chamber holding a dusty Buddha statue; this is Tham Tu Pu. Continue along the same road for 3km more and you’ll reach Buddha Cave, a cavern by the Mae Nam Kok containing a tiny but active Buddhist temple, a lone monk and several cats. The temple was one of several