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In an attempt to quash opium activity, and the more recent threat of yah bâh (methamphetamine) trafficking, the Thai government has created crop-substitution programs to encourage hill tribes to cultivate tea, coffee, corn and fruit trees.

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Khumnaiphol Resort (0 5376 5001/4; fax 0 5376 5004; 58 Mu 1; r 600-900B, bungalows 1200-4000B; ) On the road to Tha Ton, 1km south of town near the afternoon market, this resort has attractive bungalows perched on a hillside. The covered porches give great views of the tea plantations below. Hotel-style rooms are also available.

Maesalong Flower Hills Resort (0 5376 5496; www.maesalongflowerhills.com; r 1500B, bungalows 2000-2500B; ) Located 2km east of the town centre, you can’t miss this monument to flower-based landscaping. There’s a variety of modern and tidy bungalow-style rooms, some with great views. The cheaper rooms are more apartment-like and are fan-cooled. A huge pool and a couple of larger bungalows make this a great choice for families.

Eating

The very Chinese breakfast of ah·tôrng·gh (deep-fried fingers of dough) and hot soybean milk at the morning market is an inspiring way to start the day.

In fact, many Thai tourists come to Mae Salong simply to eat Yunnanese dishes such as màn·th (steamed Chinese buns) served with braised pork leg and pickled vegetables, or black chicken braised with Chinese-style herbs. All of these and more are available at Sue Hai (no roman-script sign; 08 9429 4212; 288 Moo 1, Th Mae Salong; dishes 60-150B; 7am-9pm), located in a light blue building 100m west of Sweet Maesalong. This family-run teashop-cum–Yunnanese restaurant has an English-language menu of local specialities including local mushroom fried with soy sauce, or the delicious air-dried pork fried with fresh chili. Nong Im Phochana (0 5376 5309; Th Mae Salong; dishes 60-150B; lunch & dinner), directly across from Khumnaiphol Resort, has a similar menu with an emphasis on local veggies, and the restaurant at Mae Salong Villa (0 5376 5114; Th Mae Salong; dishes 60-150) is said to do the most authentic Yunnanese food in town, including a delicious duck smoked over tea leaves.

Homemade wheat and egg noodles are another speciality of Mae Salong, and are served with a local broth that combines pork and a spicy chili paste. They’re available at several places in town.

Countless teahouses sell locally grown teas (mostly oolong and jasmine) and offer complimentary tastings. If you require a considerably higher degree of caffeine, stop by Sweet Maesalong (08 1855 4000; 41/3 Moo 1, Th Mae Salong; dishes 45-90B; 8am-8pm) a cosy modern cafe with an extensive menu of coffee drinks using local beans. Baked snacks and simple dishes are also available.

Getting There & Away

Mae Salong is accessible via two routes. The original road, Rte 1130, winds west from Ban Basang. Newer Rte 1234 approaches from the south, allowing easier access from Chiang Mai. The older route is more spectacular.

To get to Mae Salong by bus, take a Mae Sai bus from Chiang Rai to Ban Basang (20B, 30 minutes, every 15 minutes from 6am to 4pm). From Ban Basang, srng·ta·ou head up the mountain to Mae Salong (60B, one hour). To get back to Basang, srng·ta·ou park near the 7-Eleven. Srng·ta·ou stop running at around 5pm but you can charter one in either direction for about 500B.

You can also reach Mae Salong by road from Tha Ton (Click here).

BAN THOET THAI & AROUND

Those with an interest in Khun Sa history (see boxed text, opposite) can make a side trip to this Yunnanese-Shan village, formerly known as Ban Hin Taek (Broken Stone Village), 12km off the road between Ban Basang and Mae Salong.

Today, many of Ban Thoet Thai’s 3000 residents – a mix of Shan, Yunnanese, Akha, Lisu and Hmong – claim to have fond memories of the man once hunted (but never captured) by heroin-consuming countries. The warlord’s former camp headquarters, a simple collection of wood and brick buildings on a hillside overlooking the village, has been turned into a free