Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [298]
Inside, the walls are hung with maps of the Shan states and Mong Tai (the name the Shan use for the independent nation they hope to establish in the future) homelands, a photograph of the former Kengtung (East Shan State) palace and a few political posters. It’s not much considering Khun Sa’s six years (1976–82) in the area and, of course, there is no mention of opium.
A busy morning market, part of which was once used to store the Shan United Army arsenal, trades in products from Thailand, Myanmar and China. Khun Sa was also responsible for the construction of Wat Phra That Ka Kham, a Shan-style monastery near his former camp.
Accommodation and food are available at Rimtaan Guest House (0 5373 0209; 15 Moo 1, Thoet Thai; r 300-800B), a collection of tidy bungalows set in a garden near a rushing stream.
If you’re in the area in mid-November/December and have your own transport, it’s worth continuing the 30km toward the Myanmar border to Hua Mae Kham, a picturesque hillside village where dòrk booa ŧorng, a local flower, blooms in abundance. Along the way you’ll pass hill tribe villages and rice fields in stream-fed mountain valleys.
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MAE SAI
pop 21,816
At first glance, Thailand’s northernmost town, Mae Sai, appears to be little more than a large open-air market. But the city can be used as a starting point for exploring the Golden Triangle, Doi Tung and Mae Salong, and its position across from Myanmar also makes it a stepping off point for those wishing to explore some of the more remote parts of Shan State.
Because occasional fighting within Myanmar or disputes between the Thai and Myanmar governments can lead to the border being closed temporarily, it’s always a good idea to check the current situation before travelling to Mae Sai.
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Information
Immigration (0 5373 3261; 6.30am-6.30pm) At the entrance to the border bridge.
Internet Café (per hr 40B) Behind the Wang Thong Hotel by its car park.
Nino House (08 6911 4964; Soi 2, Th Phahonyothin; 9am-10pm) Located just off Soi 2, this cafe/restaurant has free wi-fi if you have your own laptop.
Overbrook Clinic (0 5373 4422; 20/7 Th Phahonyothin; 9am-3pm) Connected to the modern hospital in Chiang Rai, this small clinic on the main road has doctors who can speak English.
Tourist police (115) They have a booth in front of the border crossing before immigration.
Sights & Activities
Take the steps up the hill near the border to Wat Phra That Doi Wao, west of the main street, for superb views over Mae Sai and Myanmar. This wát was reportedly constructed in memory of a couple of thousand Burmese soldiers who died fighting the KMT here in 1965 (you’ll hear differing stories around town, including a version wherein the KMT are the heroes).
Sleeping
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Chad House (0 5373 2054; off Soi 11, Th Phahonyothin; d 80-120B, bungalows 250B) The rooms here are about as basic as it gets, but it’s a friendly, comfortable choice if you’re on a budget. There are a couple of bungalows with private cold-water bathrooms. Look for the sign on the left when coming into town.
Bamboo Guesthouse (08 6916 1895; 135/3 Th Sailomjoi; r 150-200B) The rooms here are truly basic, but cool and comfortable. Cheaper rooms have shared bathrooms, and some rooms are decorated with giant Burmese-themed posters.
Maesai Hotel (0 5373 1462; 125/5 Th Phahonyothin; r with fan/AC 250/400B) Located in a green building just off Th Phahonyothin, fan rooms here are decent value and have beds on an elevated concrete pedestal. More expensive air-con rooms have flimsy beds and cheap furniture.
Yeesun Hotel (0 5373 3455; 816/13 Th Sailomjoi; r 400B; ) This four-storey family-run hotel has great value if rather characterless rooms. Rooms are large and include comfortable furniture and beds.
Maesai Guest House (0 5373 2021; 688 Th Wiengpangkam; bungalows s 200-300B, d