Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [300]
Ying Ping Yunnan Restaurant (0 5373 2213; 132/3 Soi 6, Th Phahonyothin; dishes 100-300B) For a special night out, head to this banquet-style Chinese restaurant. The menu here features a variety of exotic-sounding dishes you’re unlikely to find elsewhere, as well as humble Yunnan-style noodle soup.
Shopping
Commerce is ubiquitous in Mae Sai, although most of the offerings are of little interest to travellers. One interesting commodity is gems, and dealers from as far away as Chanthaburi frequent the gem market that is opposite the police station. A walk down Soi 6 will reveal several open-air gem dealers diligently counting hundreds of tiny semi-precious stones on the side of the street.
Getting There & Away
On the main Th Phahonyothin road, by Soi 8, is a sign saying ‘bus stop’. From here srng·ta·ou run to Sop Ruak (45B, every 40 minutes from 9am to 2pm), terminating in Chiang Saen (50B).
For Doi Tung take one of the srng·ta·ou that park by Soi 10 to Ban Huay Khrai (25B), then another srng·ta·ou to Doi Tung (60B, one hour).
Mae Sai’s government bus station (0 5364 437) is 4km south of the frontier immigration office, or a 15B shared srng·ta·ou ride from the corner of Th Phahonyothin and Soi 2.
There are numerous buses to Chiang Rai (ordinary 38B, 1½ hours, 5.45am to 6pm). Hop on any of these buses for Mae Chan (30B, 30 minutes).
There are buses to Chiang Mai (1st class air-con/VIP 241/375B, four to five hours) with 1st-class departures at 6.45am, 9.45am and 2.30pm, and VIP departures at 8.15am and 3.30pm; as well as a direct bus from Mae Sai to Fang (91B, two hours, 7am), one to Tha Ton (51B, 1½ hours, 7am), and two to Mae Sot (2nd-class air-con/1st class 442/569B, 12 hours, 6.15am and 6.45am).
Further abroad, there are buses to Nakhon Ratchasima (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 582/749/874B, 15 hours, six times daily) and Bangkok (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 554/713/1105B, 13 hours, from 4pm to 5.45pm).
Chok-Roong Tawee Tour (no roman-script sign; 0 5364 0123) For the same prices as at the bus station you can buy tickets in advance here. There is no sign in English so look for the large red ‘International Telephone’ sign.
Getting Around
Srng·ta·ou around town are 15B shared. Motorcycle taxis cost 20B to 30B.
Honda Dreams can be rented at Pornchai (0 5373 1136; 4/7 Th Phahonyothin) for 150B a day.
AROUND MAE SAI
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Caves
There are a few interesting cave networks just south of Mae Sai. Tham Luang, 6km south of Mae Sai off Rte 110, extends into the hills for at least a couple of kilometres, possibly more. The first kilometre is fairly easy-going, but after that you have to do some climbing over piles of rocks to get further in. At this point the roof formations become more fantastic and tiny crystals make them change colour according to the angle of the light. For 40B you can borrow a gas lantern from the caretakers in front of the cave or you can take someone along as a guide (for which there’s no fixed fee; just give them whatever you feel they deserve). Apparently, guides sometimes have better things to do during the week. Charter a srng·ta·ou or rent a bike in Mae Sai to get to Tham Luang.
Another 7km south, at Ban Tham, Tham Pum and Tham Pla have freshwater lakes inside. Bring a torch to explore the caves as there are no lights. Another attraction here is the unique cakelike chedi in front of the cave entrance. It’s a very large, multitiered structure stylistically different from any other in Thailand.
There is a police checkpoint at Ban Tham so bring some ID. To get to any of these caves rent a motorbike or charter a srng·ta·ou to the turn-off on Rte 110 at Ban Tham; from there it is a 1km walk down to the caves.
Doi Tung & Around
About halfway between Mae Chan and Mae Sai on Rte 110 is the turn-off (west) for Doi Tung. The name means ‘Flag Peak’, from the northern Thai word for flag (ung). King Achutarat of Chiang Saen ordered a giant flag to be flown from the peak to mark the spot where two chedi were constructed