Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [301]
But the main attraction at Doi Tung is getting there. The ‘easy’ way is via Rte 1149, which is mostly paved to the peak of Doi Tung. But it’s winding, steep and narrow, so if you’re driving or riding a motorcycle, take it slowly.
On the theory that local hill tribes would be so honoured by a royal presence that they would stop cultivating opium, the late Princess Mother (the king’s mother) built the Doi Tung Royal Villa (0 5376 7011; www.doitung.org; admission 70B; 6.30am-5pm), a summer palace on the slopes of Doi Tung near Pa Kluay Reservoir, which is now open to the public as a museum. The royal initiative also provided education on new agricultural methods to stop slash and burn practices. Opium has now been replaced by crops such as coffee, macadamia nuts and various fruits. The rest of the property, including the Mae Fah Luang Garden and Mae Fah Luang Arboretum (admission 80B; 7am-5pm), is also open to the public. There is also a top-end hotel (see opposite), a restaurant, coffee kiosk and a Doi Tung craft shop up here. Near the parking lot, the Doi Tung Bazaar is a small open-air market with local agricultural products, prepared food and hill-tribe handicrafts. This entire complex is popular with bus tour groups.
At the peak, 1800m above sea level, Wat Phra That Doi Tung is built around the twin Lanna-style chedi. The chedi were renovated by Chiang Mai monk Khruba Siwichai, famous for his prodigious building projects, early in the 20th century. Pilgrims bang on the usual row of temple bells to gain merit. Although the wát isn’t that impressive, the forested setting will make the trip worthwhile. From the walled edge of the temple you can get an aerial view of the snaky road you’ve just climbed. A walking path next to the wát leads to a spring and there are other short walking trails in the vicinity.
A bit below the peak is the smaller Wat Noi Doi Tung, where food and beverages are available from vendors.
SLEEPING & EATING
If you want to spend the night, Ban Ton Nam 31 (0 5376 7003; www.doitung.org; Doi Tung Development Project, Mae Fah Luang District; r incl breakfast 2500-3000B; ) consists of 46 comfortable rooms that formerly served as the living quarters of the Princess Mother’s staff. The more expensive rooms have better views. A self-service restaurant (dishes 80-250B; 7am-9pm) offers meals made with local produce, and there’s also a Doi Tung cafe.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses from Mae Chan or Mae Sai (15B) and srng·ta·ou from Mae Sai (25B) go to Ban Huay Khrai, the turn-off for Doi Tung. From there srng·ta·ou are available to Doi Tung (60B, one hour).
Alternatively, if you’ve got your own wheels, you can travel between Doi Tung and Mae Sai along an even more challenging, 24km, sealed but narrow and windy road. From Doi Tung Royal Villa simply follow the signs to Wat Phrathat Doi Tung. The road hugs the Thai-Burma border behind the large limestone mountains you may have seen from Rte 110, and emerges at Soi 7 in Mae Sai. There are at least three military checkpoints along the way, so be sure to bring ID.
If you want to do a full loop from Mae Sai, ride/drive via Rte 110 south of Mae Sai, then Rte 1149 up to Doi Tung. Once you’ve had a look around the summit, return to Mae Sai via aforementioned roads; this means you’ll be travelling downhill much of the way.
If you’re coming from Mae Salong, Rte 1338 weaves from steep hills to a lush valley, before climbing again to Rte 1149 and Doi Tung. The road is fully sealed and in good shape, although it can be quite steep and windy in parts.
Cross-Border Trips to Tachileik & Beyond
Foreigners are ordinarily permitted to cross the bridge over the Nam Sai into Tachileik. On occasion the border may close temporarily for security reasons, so be prepared for possible disappointment if the political situation between Thailand and Myanmar deteriorates again.
The Thai immigration office is officially open from 6.30am to 6.30pm. After taking care of the usual formalities, cross