Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [303]
CHIANG SAEN
pop 10,807
The dictionary definition of a sleepy river town, Chiang Saen was the site of a Thai kingdom thought to date back to as early as the 7th century. Scattered throughout the modern town are the ruins of the former empire – surviving architecture includes several chedi, Buddha images, wí·hhn pillars and earthen city ramparts. Chiang Saen later became loosely affiliated with various northern Thai kingdoms, as well as 18th-century Myanmar, and never became a Siamese possession until the 1880s.
Today huge river barges from China moor at Chiang Saen, carrying fruit, engine parts and all manner of other imports, keeping the old China–Siam trade route open. Despite this trade, and despite commercialisation of the nearby Sop Ruak, the town hasn’t changed too much over the last decade, and because of this is a pleasanter base than the latter .
Only locals are allowed to cross the Mekong River into the Lao town of Ton Pheung, but foreigners who already hold a Chinese visa can use the town as a base for river trips to Jinghong in China’s Yunnan Province ( Click here).
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Information
Chiang Saen’s immigration office has two branches: the main office on the southwest corner of the town’s main intersection, and a smaller one next to the Mekong River pier (for crossings to Ton Pheung).
Chiang Saen Hospital (0 5377 7017-7035) This government hospital is just south of Wat Pa Sak. Staff speak little English. The best hospital nearby is in Chiang Rai ( Click here).
Internet (Th Phahonyothin; per hr 20B; 10am-8pm) There are two internet shops, located across from each other, a block east of Wat Chedi Luang.
Post office (Th Phahonyothin; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Located roughly across from Wat Chedi Luang.
Siam Commercial Bank (Th Phahonyothin) On the main street leading from the highway to the Mekong River. Has an ATM and currency exchange.
Visitors centre (Th Phahonyothin; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Has a good relief display showing the major ruin sites as well as photos of various chedi before, during and after restoration.
Sights & Activities
Near the town entrance, the Chiang Saen National Museum (0 5377 7102; 702 Th Phahonyothin; admission 100B; 8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun) is a great source of local information considering its relatively small size.
Behind the museum to the east are the ruins of Wat Chedi Luang, which features an 18m octagonal chedi in the classic Chiang Saen or Lanna style. Archaeologists argue about its exact construction date but agree it dates to some time between the 12th and 14th centuries.
About 200m from the Pratu Chiang Saen (the historic main gateway to the town’s western flank) are the remains of Wat Pa Sak, where the ruins of seven monuments are visible in a historical park (admission 50B). The main mid-14th-century chedi combines elements of the Hariphunchai and Sukhothai styles with a possible Bagan influence, and still holds a great deal of attractive stucco relief work.
The remains of Wat Phra That Chom Kitti and Wat Chom Chang can be found about 2.5km north of Wat Pa Sak on a hilltop. The round chedi of Wat Phra That Chom Kitti is thought to have been constructed before the founding of the kingdom. The smaller chedi below it belonged to Wat Chom Chang. There is nothing much to see at these chedi, but there is a good view of Chiang Saen and the river.
Inside the grounds of Wat Phakhaopan, a living wát near the river, stands a magnificent Lanna-period chedi. The large, square base contains Lanna-style walking Buddhas in niches on all four sides. The Buddha facing east is sculpted in the mudra (‘calling for rain’) pose, with both hands held pointing down at the image’s sides – a pose common in Laos but not so common in Thailand.
Located 3km south of town in the village of Sop Kham, Wat Phra That Phra Ngao contains a large prayer hall built to cover a partially excavated Chiang Saen–era Buddha statue. The walls of the brick building are partially covered by stucco relief murals that have been painted, giving the surface the impression of polished