Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [304]
MEKONG RIVER TRIPS
Six-passenger speedboats leaving from the waterfront jet to Sop Ruak (per boat one way/return 500/600B, 35 minutes), or all the way to Chiang Khong (per boat one-way only 2000B, 1½ hours).
If you’ve already arranged a visa, it’s also possible to take a passenger boat to Jinghong, in China’s Yunnan Province. For details see opposite.
Sleeping
Chiang Saen lacks in quality accommodation, particularly of the upscale type. If you require a higher level of service and standards, then your best bet is to base yourself in nearby Sop Ruak.
Chiang Saen Guest House (0 5365 0196; 45/2 Th Rimkhong; r 150-300B, bungalows 200B) In a handy location opposite the river and night stalls, this long-running place has basic but good-value rooms and A-frame bungalows. Boat tickets to China and visas can be arranged here (see left).
Sa Nae Charn Guest House (0 5365 1138; 641 Th Nongmut; r 200-450B; ) Run by a cheeky but easily-confused old man, the rooms here are all basic, but include amenities such as TV and air-con as you pay more.
Angsuna Hotel (0 5365 0955; 359 Moo 3; r with fan/AC 250/350B) The rooms here are utterly lacking in character, but represent a good deal if you’re on a budget but still require air-con, fridge and TV.
Gin’s Guest House (0 5365 0847; 71 Mu 8; r 300-700B, bungalows 200B) Located 1km north of the centre of town, this place has a variety of rooms (all with attached bathroom) and a variety of prices. The upstairs veranda is a good place from which to watch the Mekong flow by. Mountain bike and motorcycle rentals are available, as are a variety of tours.
Sunshine Kitchen (Khrua Ban Rot Fai; 0 5365 0605; Rte 1129; bungalows 600-800B, caboose 1200B; ) Named after the riverfront restaurant that also shares this compound, lodging here takes the form of three bamboo bungalows and, of all things, an authentic train caboose. The bungalows are basic, while the fully refurbished caboose appears to be a comfortable and, in this case, stationary place to sleep. The owner is friendly and speaks English.
Chengsan Golden Land Resort (0 5365 1100; www.chengsanresort.com; 663 Moo 2; r 800B, bungalows 1200-2000B; ) Choose from large well-equipped rooms in a two-storey building or several attractive wooden bungalows surrounding a garden and a covered swimming pool. There is another branch with 10 similarly priced bungalows in the village of Sop Kham, 3km south along the Mekong.
Chiang Saen River Hill Hotel (0 5365 0826; www.chiangsaenriverhill.net; 714 Th Sukapibansai 2; r incl breakfast 1200B; ) Although the pink exterior and floor tiles don’t exactly compliment the northern-Thai furnishing touches, this is still probably the best place in town. Rooms are large, and equipped with TV, fridge and a small area for relaxing.
Eating & Drinking
Cheap noodle and rice dishes are available at food stalls in and near the market on the river road and along the main road through town from the highway, near the bus stop. Evening food vendors set up at the latter location and stay open till around midnight.
Jinda’s Kitchen (no roman-script sign; 08 6654 3116; Rte 1290; dishes 20-50B; 7am-8pm) This cosy roadside restaurant has been serving up local dishes for more than 50 years. Try the famous northern noodle dishes kôw soy or kà·nm jeen nám ngèe·o, or choose a curry or homemade sausage from the English-language menu. Jinda’s Kitchen is located roughly halfway between Chiang Saen and Sop Ruak, near Km31; look for the Pepsi sign.
Ah Ying (no roman-script sign; 08 9655 3468; 778/1 Th Rimkhong; dishes 25-60B; 7am-10pm) This tiny family-run restaurant specialises in delicious hand-pulled noodles. Topped with a spicy minced pork mixture, they’re a great breakfast. There’s no English sign; simply look for the Chinese cooks busy stretching and flinging lengths of dough.
Evening food vendors (dishes 30-60B; 4-11pm) During the dry months these vendors