Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [305]
Kiaw Siang Hai (no roman-script sign; 44 Th Rimkhong; dishes 60-120B; 6.30am-8.30pm) Serving the workers of Chinese boats that dock at Chiang Saen, this authentic Chinese restaurant prepares a huge menu of dishes in addition to the namesake noodle and wonton dishes. Try the spicy Szechuan-style fried tofu, or one of the Chinese herbal soups.
2 be 1 (6pm-1am) By the river, this funky bar with inside and outside seating, has colourful lamps and plays house music.
Nearby in Sop Ruak, Song Fang Khong (dishes 40-100B; 11am-11pm) and Rim Khong (dishes 35-100B; 11am-11pm) are two so·an ah·hhn (food garden-style) riverside restaurants, off the river road from Chiang Saen. Both offer extensive menus of Thai, Chinese and Isan food. Bring your Thai-language skills.
Getting There & Away
Blue srng·ta·ou that travel to Sop Ruak (20B) and Mae Sai (50B) wait at the eastern end of Th Phahonyothin during daylight hours. The green srng·ta·ou bound for Chiang Khong (100B) park on Th Rimkhong, south of the riverside immigration office.
Chiang Saen has no proper bus terminal, rather there is a covered bus shelter at the eastern end of Th Phahonyothin where buses pick up and drop off passengers. From this stop there are frequent buses between Chiang Rai and Chiang Saen (35B, 1½ hours, 5.30am to 5.30pm). If you’re going to Chiang Mai (ordinary/air-con 126/227B, five hours, 7.15am/9am) be sure to ask for the si mài (new route); the si gòw (old route) meanders through Lamphun, Lampang and Phayao, taking between seven and nine hours. Alternatively, you can take a bus first to Chiang Rai then change to a Chiang Mai bus (about 4½ hours).
To Bangkok, Sombat Tour (08 1595 4616; Th Phahonyothin) offers approximately 10 seats in a daily VIP bus (990B, 12 hours, 5pm), departing from a small office adjacent to Krung Thai Bank. Space is limited, so book ahead.
CHINA
Although it was once possible to travel by cargo ship from Chiang Saen to Jinghong in China, now it’s only permitted via passenger boat through Maekhong Delta Travel (0 5364 2517; www.maekhongtravel.com; 230/5-6 Th Phaholyothin, Mae Sai; one way 820 yuan/4000B; 8am-5pm). A bare-bones Chiang Saen office of this Mae Sai–based outfit is located at the southern end of Th Rimkhong, approximately 250m south of the large boat pier. To do this trip you must already have your visa for China (quicker to arrange from Chiang Mai or Bangkok). The people at Chiang Saen Guest House (opposite) can book you a ticket and help you get a visa for China. It takes two to three days to get the visa. If you already have the latter, you can buy tickets directly from Maekhong Delta, or more conveniently through Chiang Saen Tour and Travel (0 5377 7051; manthana2425@yahoo.com; 64 Th Rimkhong; 10am-8pm).
The trip from Chiang Saen to Jinghong takes 15 hours when conditions are good. During drier months the going is slower, as rocks and shallows can hamper the way. When this is the case a night’s stay in Guanlei is included. Boats depart from Chiang Saen on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 5am.
LAOS
Although boats do travel from Chiang Saen to Laos, the closest crossing open to foreigners is in Chiang Khong ( Click here).
Getting Around
Motorbike taxis and shm·lór will do short trips around town for 20B. They congregate near and across from the bus stop.
A good way to see the Chiang Saen–Mae Sai area is on two wheels. Mountain bikes (per day 50B) and motorcycles (per day 200B) can be rented at Gin’s Guest House ( Click here) and Angpao Chiangsean Tour (0 5365 0143; www.angpao-r3a.com; Th Phahonyothin; 9am-8pm). The latter can also provide a vehicle with driver, and conducts a variety of local tours.
AROUND CHIANG SAEN
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